Pat's Bike Blog

EpiBlogue

2009-06-01T13:29:00.011-05:00

This Cairn, located in Owen Sound, marked my final destination in Canada. It was erected by the city a few years back to commemorate the abolition of slavery and to honor the memory of the many slaves who made their way to Owen Sound via the Underground Railroad and went on to contribute to the development of the region. I didn’t know what a cairn was, but soon found out that it has its origins in Celtic tradition and is a manmade rock formation typically designed to serve as a memorial. Indeed that it is the purpose of the Owen Sound Cairn.

The tiles in the foreground represent the squares of the quilts that were used as signals to the freedom seekers.

Concealed in the quilt patterns were hidden signs and coded messages that were passed on to runaway slaves. The quilts were generally hung on lines or fences to serve as guideposts.

I apologize for taking so long to write this final blog entry. Returning to the normal pattern of life has kept me distracted. I miss the solitude of the ride and the contemplative evenings at the campsite.

I did make it safely home from Ontario, although it took me three days to do so. What a contrast – to go from 41 days where I had reasonable control of my destiny to 3 days at the mercy of the airlines. I am still awaiting the return of my bicycle, which I shipped. I hope it gets here this week, as I have become quite attached to it!

This has been an amazing journey, and your encouragement and support of the cause throughout has made it all the more so. I never felt alone out there, knowing that you were following along each day via the blog. And your contributions in support of the WUWF program fund have never been more important. As of today, 78 individual and corporate sponsors have contributed a total of $16,328. THANK YOU!! If you still want to make a contribution and haven’t done so, it is never too late. And remember, I covered all of my expenses on this adventure myself, so 100% of your gift goes directly to support your favorite programs.

I’m going to take a little time to catch my breath before I finalize plans for the next adventure in 2011. Stay tuned …

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End of the Line

2009-05-19T23:00:00.007-05:00

After the longest ride of the trip (102 miles and nearly 8 hours on the saddle), I arrived at Owen Sound tonight around eight o’clock. I wasn’t planning to get here until tomorrow, but as I got closer today the endorphins kicked in and I decided to go for it.

This was in spite of a really wicked head wind and even the threat of rain at one point. I didn’t have any time for exploring once I got here, but will visit several sites in the morning and blog about them tomorrow night. I am very tired but elated tonight – it’s hard to believe the adventure is over. Here are a few stats:

Total miles ridden: 2,216
Total days riding: 41
Average miles per day: 54
Total dog chases (since Fulton, MS): 45
Total flats: 4 (all within the first week)

For about 20 miles of the ride today, I passed through very flat farm land (although at a high elevation). Seeing hundreds of these huge turbines stretching as far as the eye could see in every direction, I realized that the real cash crop in northern Ontario is wind.

They are very impressive and a bit creepy, with a kind of War of the World look about them. At least Canada is putting its wind to work in creating clean energy.

Here’s a picture of my first glimpse of Nottawasaga Bay, just outside of Collingwood. You can see it just over the tree line in the background. The scenery was beautiful and ever-changing as I progressed along the route.

I can’t keep my eyes open so I’m going to wrap this blog up with a huge thank you to those who have contributed to this campaign. If you haven’t, it’s not too late to do so. Check back tomorrow for more information about historic Owen Sound.

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A Great Day To Be In Ontario

2009-05-18T18:57:00.008-05:00

The good roads and outstanding weather today more than made up for the challenges of yesterday. Although it started out a bit chilly (one degree below freezing), the clear skies and bright sunlight soon warmed it up to a pleasant 60 degrees.

The scenery today was magnificent as I scaled more than one escarpment. The climbs here are more challenging than either Tennessee or Kentucky, with the elevation rising as much 1,800 feet over a distance of only a few miles.

The air is so clean and dry, and the visibility seems unlimited. Most of the scenery is so vast that you can’t capture it in a photograph, so I focused on a couple of interesting locations. The picture above was taken about midway up a particularly steep climb.

This picture is of Credit Creek near the town of Terra Cotta. With it being Victoria Day, there were a lot of Canadians trout fishing near this spot. There were also many folks enjoying the day cycling – I must have seen at least a hundred bikers. Canada is really trying to promote cycling and the drivers here are very polite.

Today I did my Q&A session with my friends at Ransom Middle School from a phone booth – remember those? Actually, this booth was not operative (I really thought it looked very British), but I did find a more updated version in Georgetown. It is hard to believe that I will be in Owen Sound on Wednesday and most likely back home in Pensacola by the end of the week. This has been a great adventure, but it will be good to be home again.

The weather forecast for the next two days looks good, so I should have a couple more days of enjoyable riding. I hope to be in Collingwood tomorrow night and then Owen Sound is a half-day ride from there. Check back with me tomorrow and thanks again for your encouragement and support.

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Canadian Bacon

2009-05-17T22:00:00.011-05:00

When I passed this porker on the road this afternoon, I thought about the Eggs Benedict I had for breakfast this morning and the concept of real commitment. You know that in order to make my favorite morning dish the hen is certainly involved, but the pig is committed.

Think about that as you ponder your relationship with public radio. We don’t need your commitment, but your involvement through your contribution to this campaign will keep all of your favorite programs on the air despite the current economic challenges. Thank you to the many who are already involved. We are in the final days of this wonderful adventure. Your support and encouragement has enabled me to get out there every day, rain or shine, and discover new people and places. I think we have all learned some things we didn’t know.

I am learning about geology as I make my way through Ontario. For those who think this part of the route is flat, guess again. Since entering Ontario, I have been riding along the Niagara Escarpment. An escarpment is a ridge made up of gradually sloping rock layers on one side with a rather steep face on the other. They are generally formed by one of two processes: either by differential erosion of sedimentary rocks, or by vertical movement of the Earth's crust along a fault.

As you can see from this map, the Underground Railroad Route virtually follows the Niagara Escarpment. Rising spectacularly (I can appreciate this having climbed two today) above the lower lying rural and urban areas of Ontario, the escarpment holds the headwaters of several of the region’s rivers as well as many ecological treasures. The best known of these is, of course, Niagara Falls itself. Some of cliffs soar nearly 1,700 feet in the air. The two I scaled today were at about 1,000 feet each.

Here is a picture I took of Hamilton after climbing the escarpment between it and Dundas. The next picture was taken after I climbed the second one beyond Dundas. You can still see the Hamilton skyline in the distance. Yesterday I rode through the wine country, which borders Lake Ontario.

Today was more of an urban ride, and tomorrow I will be heading into a more rural area between here and Owen Sound. I am in Milton tonight. After having to maneuver through the urban sprawl of Hamilton today, I’m ready to get back out into the country.

Tune in tomorrow for my live reports on 88.1FM and check back tomorrow night for a new blog. Peace be with you ...

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2010 Miles Down, 190 to Go!

2009-05-16T18:07:00.000-05:00

Yes! Rolling into Hamilton, Ontario in the pouring rain today I passed another millennium mile mark. Despite the rain and a hard-driving head wind, it has been a good day. Because of the weather I couldn’t take any pictures, so I am sharing this picture of my trusty bike in front of the American Falls at Niagara taken yesterday (I didn’t mean to only show the Horseshoe Falls on the Canadian side). I have to keep putting the bike in these pictures to prove that I’m not still at Hubbard’s Landing in Alabama, faking the whole trip.

Riding through Canada is interesting – the people are very friendly and the roads are good for the most part. If it wasn’t for the speed limit signs all being metric, I would think I was still in New York. The weather tomorrow is looking better, so I am anticipating some good riding and picture-taking as I leave Lake Ontario and head Northwest toward Owen Sound. If I maintain my current pace, I should arrive there on Wednesday. Yahoo!

I know this blog is brief, but all I did was ride, ride, ride today. Thanks for riding along – catch you tomorrow ...

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Oh Canada!

2009-05-15T18:00:00.000-05:00

What a glorious day! The weather has been beautiful, the riding easy, and the scenery spectacular. Here I am on the Canadian side of Niagara Falls, proudly wearing my Ransom Tigers t-shirt in honor of my friends in John Lowe’s class who have been tracking me on my journey and making sure I keep my facts straight.

I began my day riding through downtown Buffalo in search of the Michigan Avenue Baptist Church, one of the city’s best-known Underground Railroad sites. The church had its beginnings in the mid-1830s when the first black congregation in the area was organized.

For several years the congregation worshipped in a rented space in Niagara until their permanent home was completed in 1845. During the 1850s the church building served as a safe house, where freedom seekers would hide in the basement while waiting to be ferried across the Niagara River to Canada by night.

Around the corner from the church is the Nash House. J. Edward Nash was the son of parents who had been born as slaves. He arrived in Buffalo from Virginia in 1892. Twenty-four years old at the time, he took the pulpit of the church and served as pastor for 61 years. He was one of the most influential leaders in developing the African American community in Buffalo. He was host to W.E.B. Dubois and Booker T. Washington, among other prominent African American leaders of the time.

He was widely respected by the city white establishment and used his access to public officials to benefit the African American community.

Buffalo was the last stop on the freedom train. Legendary Underground Railroad conductor Harriet Tubman led bands of numerous runaways through Western New York on their way to freedom in Canada. Many fugitives stopped running in Buffalo, put down roots and began to build their own communities. This was the beginning of a rich and diverse culture that still permeates the city today.

Here is the Peace Bridge leading from Buffalo into Ontario. I took this picture from the Canadian side after riding across it. The most complicated part of crossing over was getting me and my bike through the metal turnstile at the American checkpoint.

From then on, it was smooth sailing along the Niagara Recreation Trail that runs alongside the Niagara River from Fort Erie to Lake Ontario at Niagara-on-the-Lake.

I met a family of Canada Geese, obviously quite at comfortable on their home turf. In closing I’ll leave you with a couple of obligatory pictures of the great Niagara Falls, although photographs don’t even come close to capturing the beauty and power of the water.

Tomorrow I hope to continue North through St. Catharines and toward Hamilton. The weather forecast is for more wind and thunder storms, so I don’t know how far I will get.

Whatever the weather brings, it won’t dampen my spirits. I am continually amazed and delighted at how inspiring this trek continues to be. Thanks for coming along! This is a holiday weekend in Canada, with Monday being Victoria Day, so I should encounter some festivities along the way.

Check back tomorrow for more pictures and stories. Take care!

Large versions of all my blog pics can be found at my photo gallery

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Blown Away in New York

2009-05-14T17:59:00.004-05:00

I thought you might enjoy this picture of the mangled mess that was once my great little tent. Last night a storm front moved into the area and brought with it a raging wind that made me feel like I was back in Pensacola during hurricane season.

The locals said I got a good taste of the extreme weather typical along Lake Erie. After about five hours of non-stop blowing, my tent poles finally gave up and twisted themselves into a whole new configuration. I ended up with about eighteen inches of space to sleep in the rest of the night. As soon as daylight arrived, I was up, packed and on the road in hopes of beating the next shower. I didn’t beat it for long. Most of today’s ride was in cold pouring rain. Of course, within an hour of stopping for the day, the sun was out and it had evolved into a beautiful spring afternoon. And I thought the weather changed quickly along the Gulf Coast.

Tonight I am staying just west of Buffalo. In the morning I will ride through the city, check out a few Underground Railroad sites, and cross over the Peace Bridge into Ontario. From there I will approach Niagara Falls from the Canadian side. I hope to be camping right near the falls, which means I have to work on bending my tent back into shape tonight.

Keep those comments coming – I really enjoy reading them! Oh, and don’t forget to contribute to the cause if you haven’t already. Take care and check back tomorrow.

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Guess Where I Am

2009-05-13T18:00:00.000-05:00

I rode like the wind today and covered three states: Ohio, Pennsylvania, and New York – well, actually I started out in Conneaut which is three miles from the Pennsylvania state line and ended my ride in Ripley, which is less than one mile into New York- but I did it nonetheless (55 miles).

Tonight I am camping on bluffs overlooking Lake Erie. The day started out cold and cloudy but cleared up as I rode and by the time I reached Ripley it was 74 degrees and clear (as you can see from this picture). Storm clouds are gathering as I write this, so I could be in for a wet night.

I have certainly been blessed with good weather on this trip, so I have no reason to complain.

I breezed through Erie about midday and took this excellent bike trail that winds through the downtown waterfront. What a vibrant area and one that is clean and well maintained. From there I spent the next couple of hours riding along the lake shore through Pennsylvania’s wine country.

The grapes are still dormant this time of year, but the vineyards and surrounding countryside are really beautiful. I am seeing a part of Pennsylvania (and New York for that matter) I have never experienced before. It seems hard to believe that day after tomorrow I will be crossing the Peace Bridge from Buffalo into Canada. From there it’s another 281 miles to Owen Sound. What a grand adventure this has been! Your comments, contributions, prayers and good thoughts have really carried me along – thank you!

Tomorrow I continue heading east along the lake. When I reach Buffalo on Friday I will turn north again and head straight for Owen Sound. I’m not sure how well I will be able to communicate once I am in Canada, but we’ll find out soon enough. Have a good evening, stay well, and check back tomorrow for the latest update.

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Mother Hubbard’s Cupboard

2009-05-12T22:00:00.000-05:00

Built in the 1840s by William and Catharine Hubbard and known as “Mother Hubbard’s Cupboard” and “The Great Emporium” by runaway slaves, the Hubbard House was an important terminus on the Underground Railroad.

The Hubbards sheltered escaped slaves who had successfully crossed the Ohio River and made their way north to Ashtabula. From here, the slaves walked one quarter mile to the Hubbard and Company warehouse on the Ashtabula River, where friendly boat captains waited to ferry them to freedom in Canada.

In addition to the Hubbard House, Ashtabula County had over thirty known Underground Railroad safe houses, and many more conductors. Nearly two-thirds of those sites still stand today. Ashtabula County was also instrumental in John Brown's famous attack on the Federal arsenal at Harper's Ferry, Virginia. Brown stored many of his weapons at the King and Brothers cabinet shop in Cherry Valley. He later shipped them to the Kennedy farm at Harper's Ferry. Of the nineteen men who charged the arsenal with John Brown, Sr., thirteen were from Ashtabula County. Dangerfield Newby was the first of Brown's followers to fall mortally wounded. A former runaway slave from a Virginia plantation, he lived in Dorset and worked as a conductor on the UGRR in Ashtabula County.

Ashtabula is also known for the Great Ashtabula Train Bridge Disaster of 1876, the worst train bridge disaster in US history. Over 91 people perished, including Peter Paul Bliss, the man who coined the phrase "gospel music." He worked with Ira Sankey, the well-known song leader for Reverend D.L. Moody, the man who created the Moody Bible Institute. Legend has it that Bliss was able to free himself from the burning wreckage - his wife was not. He returned to the flaming car to rescue her. Unable to free her, he waited with her while the inferno engulfed them both.

It was exciting to finally reach the shore of Lake Erie today and the weather was perfect for my first view of the great lake. About half of my ride was right alongside the lake, through what is considered a resort area. After visiting Ashtabula, I rode on to Conneaut.

That will be my last stop before heading into Pennsylvania in the morning. I have now traveled 1,786 miles since leaving Pensacola on April 6th. For you dollar-a-dog contributors, the dog chase count since I started keeping track in northern Mississippi is 45.

Thanks again for your contributions, your comments, and your thoughts and prayers. They all keep me going. Check back tomorrow to find out where I end up. Peace be with you ...

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Get Your Wallet Out, Les

2009-05-11T20:43:00.011-05:00

I owe my great adventure today to Les Matheson. Les gets it. He knows how important it is to support public radio and has done so most generously for as long as I can remember. When I was preparing for this journey, he was one of the first to come on board as a sponsor in a BIG way.

First, he is contributing $1 per mile for the total distance I travel in the state of Ohio (it’ll be close to 500). As if that wasn’t enough, he challenged me to find Jerry Gibson, proprietor of Gibson Bagpipes, premier crafters of these fine instruments. Jerry’s shop is located in Willoughby, Ohio. This is where I am tonight.

In addition to finding Jerry, my challenge was to get him to play the pipes as a part of one of my live reports. The payoff is an additional $500 contribution! Okay, mission ALMOST accomplished.

I found Jerry today, a miracle in itself, considering how directionally challenged I am. I had to leave the Underground Railroad Route to get here, which meant I had to find my own way. This is dangerous – I could have ended up lost forever in the suburbs of Cleveland. But I made it – here’s Jerry to prove it.

I would have gotten him on the air today, but he had no fully assembled pipes in the shop. He is going to get a set assembled and I am going to call him later this week and get him on.

The challenge of finding Jerry was great fun, but being able to spend some time in Willoughby has been even better. This is a beautiful town in the suburbs of Cleveland. Here’s a brief history:

Willoughby's first permanent settler was David Abbott in 1798, pre-dating Ohio's bid for statehood by five years. Abbott and his family had close relations to the local tribe of Erie Indians along the banks of the river the Indians called the "Sha-ga-rin" or Clear Water. This river was later called the Chagrin River. In 1835, the village was permanently named "Willoughby" in honor of Dr. Westel Willoughby, Jr., a public health official that the founders of the Medical College, which was based in the city, hoped to attract to the area. This medical college would later merge with Western Reserve Academy in Hudson, OH to eventually become Western Reserve University, the predecessor to Cleveland's Case Western Reserve University. Many historical buildings from this period survive to this date, affording the downtown Willoughby area some outstanding specimens of 19th century architecture.

There is a veteran’s memorial in the center of downtown with a prominent statue of a Union soldier with the inscription “In memory of the soldiers of Willoughby who served their country in the War of the Rebellion, 1861-65.”

Tomorrow I head to Ashtabula. It should be a good ride along Lake Erie, a little cold in the morning (there are frost warnings tonight), but clear and sunny. I’ve just about run out of Ohio, with Pennsylvania on the horizon. I hope the wind stays at my back.

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The Civil War Started Here?

2009-05-10T23:47:00.005-05:00

One of the highlights of my visit to Oberlin was to see this iconic sculpture honoring the college and community’s contributions to the Underground Railroad. While the claim to be the origin of the War Between the States is still debated, one thing is certain – right from its start, Oberlin was different from any other school and community in the nation. It was the first college in the United States where women and men were taught in the same classrooms. In 1834, the college faculty voted to admit students “irrespective of color.” In 1835 Oberlin admitted James Bradley, who became the first African American to attend Oberlin College.

In June of 1835 the Oberlin Anti-Slavery Society was created and by the end of the year the society had 300 members. The anti-slavery society in Oberlin is important because it reaffirmed the community’s commitment to opposing slavery, and also because it was one of few anti-slavery societies in northern Ohio.

Oberlin became a major focus in the abolition movement in the middle of the nineteenth century. They seized every opportunity to challenge the fugitive slave acts and did everything possible to make sure enslaved blacks were not returned to the south. The most famous example is what is known as the Wellington Rescue. John Price, a young black man was kidnapped by Kentucky slave catchers and two Columbus deputies. When the news reached Oberlin, a crowd of blacks and whites went to the Wadsworth Hotel in Wellington where Price was being held.

The crowd demanded Price’s release and when negotiations failed they rushed the hotel. In the chaos, Price was rushed to a buggy and taken back to Oberlin. Hidden in Oberlin College’s President James Fairchild’s attic for a few days Price was then sent on to Canada and never heard from again. Twenty-seven men who aided in Price’s escape were arrested for opposing the Fugitive Slave Act. While awaiting trial, the men chose to stay in jail and printed the newspaper “The Rescuer.” On July 7, 1859, the Kentucky Slave catchers were arrested and charged with the kidnapping of John Price, and all but one of the twenty seven men were released from jail and charges were dropped.

In 1859, two of Oberlin’s African Americans, John A. Copeland and Lewis Sheridan Leary, joined John Brown’s band of 21 raiders in their unsuccessful attempt to bring about emancipation through a slave insurrection at the federal arsenal Harper’s Ferry, Virginia. Leary was killed during the raid and Copeland was later hanged. Oberlin memorialized them with the only monument erected for any of the five African Americans who fought with John Brown.

Another local hero memorialized in Oberlin was Giles Waldo Shurtleff, who organized the first regiment of colored troops raised in Ohio. A strong tail wind and no rain have enabled me to make good progress through Ohio this weekend. I am heading for Willoughby tomorrow to track down a piper and then on to Ashtabula. Thank you for following along!

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Light Traffic

2009-05-09T18:44:00.004-05:00

Indeed it is along the back roads here in Ohio’s Amish country. I saw almost as many horse drawn buggies and wagons as I did loud gas guzzling, global warming automobiles. After camping in the rain last night, I was certain this morning that it was going to be a day of more of the same.

Instead, it ended up being a great day for riding. A very strong wind blowing from the southwest moved most of the rain clouds away as the morning progressed and rewarded me with a wonderful tail wind for most of the day. The storm clouds returned later, but I was able to maintain a good pace and made it the 78 miles to Oberlin without any rainfall.

Tonight I am being hosted by Ken Sloane and Lisa Shomo, a couple of avid cyclists who ride all over the world. They are exceedingly gracious, a trait I have found to be rather common among the biking community. Tomorrow morning after I participate in Holy Eucharist at Oberlin’s Christ Episcopal Church, I am going to visit the numerous Underground Railroad sites in this great college town. I already know that Oberlin College has the distinction of being the first college in America to admit both male and female students of all races. If the weather cooperates, I will take lots of pictures to document this historic town and share some more history about it in my blog tomorrow night.

One of Oberlin’s distinguished alums is Les Matheson, who is also a great supporter of WUWF. Les has pledged a dollar a mile for Ohio part of my trek and a big bonus contribution if I can connect with one of his fellow pipers and get him on one of my live reports. Stay tuned!

I have been studying my maps tonight and it is quite possible that I may reach Owen Sound within the next 10-12 days – yippee! I wish the total dollars raised for WUWF as a result of my efforts was as far along. If you have been waiting for the big finish, DON’T WAIT! Every dollar you contribute goes directly to pay for the programs you enjoy, so do yourself a favor. Don’t make me have to send Garrison packing when I get home.

Remember, I am on my own, covering ALL of the costs of this journey – that’s MY contribution to the cause. Please consider the importance of supporting public radio in these tough times. I know you have to choose what you can support – I hope you make WUWF one of your choices. Thank you for helping us to get this far and for making this adventure something I will never forget.

Check back with me tomorrow for the real story on Oberlin.

Peace be with you!

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I Rode 70 Miles for This?

2009-05-08T18:56:00.003-05:00

You bet! There’s nothing like a well-balanced dinner at the campsite after a long ride. I do have most of the food groups covered, if you include the granola bar not pictured. Just imagine biting into that PBJ on a hot dog bun that has been stuffed into the bottom of one of my bags for about a week.

It just doesn’t get any better than this!

Not much history today – mostly just riding through intermittent rain. This weekend will be more of the same until I get to Oberlin, hopefully sometime Sunday. There is a lot of history there pertaining to the Underground Railroad. I am camping tonight near Fredericktown, hoping the rain holds off so I can get a relatively dry start in the morning.

I really enjoy the comments that many of you have been making. Rex, thanks for the history lesson about the Purple People Pedestrian Bridge in Cincinnati. I don’t have any great pictures to share (as you can tell by the one I took out of desperation) because I had to keep the camera packed away today to keep it dry.

Maybe the sun will make an appearance tomorrow and I can get some good shots. I will continue to blog through the weekend, so check back tomorrow. Enjoy your weekend!

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All Trails Lead to Xenia

2009-05-07T23:59:00.000-05:00

Named a “Trail Town, USA” by the American Hiking Society, Xenia stands at the crossroads of four rails-to-trails in Ohio: the Little Miami Scenic Trail (on which I spent yesterday riding all day in the rain), the Xenia-Jamestown Connector, the Creekside Trail, and the Ohio to Erie Trail (where I did most of my riding today).

I continue to be impressed by Ohio’s commitment to safe biking. All of these trails are beautiful. The Xenia Station Bike Hub is a replicated train depot occupying the site of the town’s original depot.

My trek today has brought me to Dublin, Ohio, the home of Chuck Harmon, my Underground Railroad conductor for this leg of the journey. Chuck was responsible for researching and mapping the Ohio section of the URR Bike Route. A great resource for information about URR activity in the area, he took me to Mechanicsburg to learn about how one community took a stand against slavery.

Fugitive Slave Laws passed by Congress in 1793 and 1850 allowed federal marshals to arrest slaves that had escaped to the North and return them to their southern owners. They could also arrest northerners suspected of aiding runaway slaves. These laws were contested throughout the North, including Ohio where one case in Mechanicsburg received national attention.

In August of 1856, escaped slave Addison White arrived in Mechanicsburg where he met abolitionist Udney Hyde and stayed at his farm while Hyde recovered from a leg injury. White’s master Daniel White learned of his location and came to Mechanicsburg in April of 1857 with federal marshals to reclaim his slave. When the marshals attempted to seize Addison and arrest Udney for violating the Fugitive Slave Law, Mechanicsburg residents with pitchforks and shovels came to their aid. The marshals left, but came back to arrest the men who protected Addison White. Several of the residents were rounded up and taken by the marshals toward Kentucky to face charges. Learning of the arrests, a large number of citizens set off on horseback to free their neighbors. The Clark County sheriff joined in the pursuit, but was shot near South Charleston while trying to stop the marshals. The running battle ended in Lumberton near Xenia when the Greene County sheriff arrested the marshals. The case was finally settled when the people of Mechanicsville paid $900 for Addison White’s freedom. During the Civil War, he joined the 54th Massachusetts Infantry and returned to Mechanicsville after the war to work for the city’s Street Department.

The history is indeed rich in these areas, almost more than I can absorb as I continue to make my way north to Ontario. Tomorrow I continue moving closer to Lake Erie, which I will hug through the rest of Ohio, Pennsylvania and New York until I cross over at Niagara Falls. The weather forecast for the weekend looks promising, so the riding should be good.

Check back with me tomorrow. Until then, peace be with you.

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Doing the Wright Thing

2009-05-06T21:29:00.010-05:00

It was a matter of faith and conscience that made Springboro one of the most active Ohio communities of Underground Railroad conductors. Its founder, abolitionist Jonathan Wright, and his fellow peace-loving Quakers believed that God meant for all men to be free.

Accordingly, they were willing to break the law and risk their own safety by opening their homes and their hearts to escaped slaves in search of freedom. And they were very good at it. With a large number of safe houses interconnected by an elaborate system of subterranean tunnels, the Quakers were able to rapidly move runaways from one location to another, often just ahead of the slave hunters.

Despite constant scrutiny and harassment from bounty hunters and law enforcement, not one escaped slave was ever captured or returned while under their protection. It is estimated that as many as four thousand freedom seekers traveled through Springboro between 1815 and 1864. Wright’s home (pictured above) is now a Bed & Breakfast in Springboro. In the attic there is a trap door leading to a small hiding space between the attic floor and the sloping ceiling below over the staircase. The western chimney on the house is white-washed on only one side. This was a sign to runaway slaves that the house was a safe haven.

This is the Joseph Stanton House, which may have been known as the “Quilt House.” Quilts hung in the back of the house signaled runaway slaves that it was safe to enter. There was a hiding space in the basement that extended westward between the two basement windows, under what is now the sidewalk.

Freedom seekers had to be very trusting of the white Underground Railroad conductors. They were often hurriedly led into cramped hiding spaces, locked from the outside, and left until they could be safely released and sent on their way. I imagine it didn’t take long for reports of the kindness of the Quakers to make their way south. This probably accounted for the popularity of Springboro. Location no doubt was important as well. Situated between the Great and Little Miami Rivers and just two nights’ run north of the Ohio River, Springboro was in the middle of two corridors of flight.

The Friends Cemetery, located just off Main Street, is the final resting place for Jonathan Wright, many of his descendants, and at least eight known Underground Railroad conductors. Quakers marked their graves with simple river stone with no inscription.

In later years, more traditional head stones began to be used. Burial was done chronologically – family members were not buried together.

I want to thank three ladies in Springboro who gave me a quick education about its rich history – Suzie Salas and Anne Stremanos with the Springboro Chamber of Commerce and Helen Sproat, head of the Springboro Historical Society who gave me a rainy walking tour of the historic district and shared many great stories. You all are the best!

Despite a constant rain today, the riding was pleasant (I had the whole trail to myself) although I was pretty wet and cold by the end of the day. Tonight I am sleeping in Xenia, and in the morning I will be visiting neighboring Wilberforce before continuing along Ohio to Erie Trail. Thank you for your continuing support and comments – they make this journey all the better. Take care and I’ll check back with you tomorrow ...

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Spinning Heaven in Ohio

2009-05-05T23:59:00.008-05:00

Kudos to the state of Ohio for creating an amazing set of rails-to-trails bike routes. Today I enjoyed a most pleasant ride on the fifty mile long Little Miami Scenic Trail, one of the longest paved rail-trails in America. Look closely at this picture – how could you not have a good day riding on this?

And it’s flat, too! Still not impressed? Take a look at some more of the scenery surrounding me for most of the day:

The original tracks that followed this route carried the Little Miami Railroad, running from eastern Cincinnati to Xenia, where it linked up with its partner line, the Columbus and Xenia Railroad, to make the first rail connection between the state capital of Columbus and Cincinnati.

When the trains stopped running in the 1970s, the route was converted to its current use.

This morning I left Cold Spring, Kentucky and crossed over the Ohio River into Cincinnati via the Purple People Pedestrian Bridge. I could find no signage explaining its origin, and I haven’t been able to research it.

It’s not purple – at least not now.

It appears to be an old bridge taken out of service and now allowing only pedestrian and bicycle access.

Once in the city, I made my way to the home of Harriet Beecher Stowe. A prolific writer, she wrote a book a year for nearly thirty years of her life. Her most famous book, of course, was Uncle Tom’s Cabin, inspired as I mentioned in an earlier blog by her visits to Old Washington and Ripley.

As the most popular novel of its century, the book was believed to be possibly the most influential factor in popularizing the cause of anti-slavery. As such, it made her an icon of the American anti-slavery movement.

Tomorrow I take a side trip to visit the community of Springboro, an original Quaker settlement and one of the most frequented stopovers for freedom seekers. After that, I continue along the Little Miami Scenic Trail to the towns of Xenia and Wilberforce.

Just a reminder: this trek is a FUNDRAISER. I am on my own, covering ALL of my expenses. 100% of your contribution goes directly to support the programs on WUWF. The contributions are slowing down, just as I am speeding up. Let’s make this thing work – I’m doing my part – how about you? To those who have already done so, THANK YOU! You know how much I appreciate your support.

Tune in tomorrow for the latest updates. Peace out!

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The Price for Freedom

2009-05-04T23:59:00.001-05:00

For John P. Parker, the price for his freedom was $1,800 of hard-earned cash payable to his owner. In the early nineteenth century this was no pittance. Born a slave in Virginia in 1827, Parker made several attempts to escape until he was finally able to purchase his freedom from his owner in Mobile, Alabama.

He was permitted to earn the money by working in a foundry during the time period when the slaves were allowed to sleep. By doing this, he not only earned the cash he needed but also learned a trade that would be his livelihood.

By 1849, he had moved to Ripley, working in his own foundry by day and helping slaves escape from Kentucky by night. He was also an inventor, receiving patents for his soil pulverizer and tobacco presses. The picture at the beginning of this blog is one of a series of oil paintings depicting his life, on display at home along the riverfront in Ripley. As an Underground Railroad conductor, he would slip back into slave territory and help freedom seekers make their way across the Ohio River.

Here are the other paintings in the series:

Here are pictures of two other URR conductors (from the Rankin House exhibit):

Today I made it to Cincinnati (81 miles – one of my longest rides so far this trip). Tonight I am staying with friends in Cold Spring, Kentucky – just across the river. Tomorrow I will visit the URR sites in the city before heading north. Much of the route for the next 50 miles is on rails-to-trails, so it should be some good riding. I have now travelled 1,331 miles since leaving Pensacola on April 6. Owen Sound, Ontario is getting closer every day!

Check back tomorrow and keep those contributions coming – thank you!

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Freedom on Liberty Hill

2009-05-03T23:59:00.000-05:00

This is the commanding view of the Ohio River from the home of Presbyterian Minister John Rankin, high above the historic town of Ripley, Ohio. On a clear day (which this wasn’t), you can see seven bends in the river as it marks the border between Kentucky and Ohio. Reverend Rankin and his large family were among the most notable abolitionists in the area, providing shelter to an estimated 2,000 freedom seekers. Their house could be identified at night from the river by a candle glowing in its window.

Here is a view of the house, restored to its original appearance during the heyday of the Underground Railroad in the decade leading up to the Civil War.

To the right of the entrance is a root cellar where runaway slaves were hidden until it was safe for them to move along the ridge above town to the Red Oak Presbyterian Church, the next stop on their journey to freedom (more on that later).

Here is the view from the top of the “stairway to liberty” supposedly used by the freedom seekers to reach the Rankin’s home from Ripley after crossing the river.

The stairs have been restored, but here is an historic picture of the original stairs – quite a climb!

The author Harriet Beecher Stowe was a frequent guest at the Rankin home and it is said that the character Eliza in her novel Uncle Tom’s Cabin was based on an actual runaway slave who made three daring trips across the frozen river to rescue her husband, infant, and seven other children.

The Red Oak Presbyterian Church and Cemetery was the second stop near Ripley for escaped slaves on the run.

Although it was a significant part of the Underground Railroad, the cemetery is better known by tourists as the final resting place for the iconic Aunt Jemima.

(Rosa Washington Riles was born in Red Oak, Ohio. She was recruited to travel around the country playing Aunt Jemima, beginning in the mid-1930s in stage shows, film, on the radio and eventually TV.)

Before leaving Kentucky this morning I visited a few sites worth noting. The Paxton Inn in Old Washington was built around 1810 by James A. Paxton, a local attorney and abolitionist.

It was said to be a safe house for escaping slaves, who were believed to have hidden on a narrow staircase next to the kitchen fireplace until they could be safely moved across the river to Ohio.

Also in Old Washington is the Harriet Beecher Stowe Slavery to Freedom Museum. This building was the home of Marshall Key, who was visited by Stowe during the summer of 1833. While there, she attended a local slave auction on the adjacent courthouse lawn.

That scene was later incorporated in her famous novel.

As I passed through downtown Maysville, I visited the Bierbower House, another documented safe house built in the 1840s. The Underground Railroad experience is becoming so much more tangible to me now as I encounter more of these actual sites.

In tomorrow’s blog I will feature the Ripley home of ex-slave, abolitionist and inventor John P. Parker.

Before I wrap this up, I want you to appreciate the effort I have made to be chased by a bear in order to up the ante on pledges. Although I couldn’t get him to chase me, he did try to swat me!

He was one of a pair of bears living in the back yard of one of Ripley’s more colorful characters. I am no longer surprised by anything I see on this journey.

I really want to thank Sonja Cropper, who spent the day showing me around Ripley. As the county’s economic development and tourism guru, she is doing a great job promoting this area’s important contributions to the Underground Railroad.

Time to call it a night. Check back with me tomorrow when I will hopefully be in Cincinnati. Take care!

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Mood Indigo

2009-05-02T20:11:00.013-05:00

Okay, this is the punch line to a really lame joke my father used to tell me. Unless you are even older than me or a Duke Ellington fan, it will be lost on you (as it was on me for years). It goes like this: “What happened to the cow that ate the bluegrass? He Mood Indigo.”

I told you it was lame. Anyway, when I passed this herd on my route today I suddenly remembered it from my childhood and felt the need to share it with you.

I really did see some beautiful bluegrass as I navigated the rolling hills from Dry Ridge to Maysville (about 70 miles). I am spending my last night in Kentucky here in Maysville, and in the morning I am going to explore the great Underground Railroad sites both here and in Old Washington before crossing the Ohio River into Ohio.

There I will be visiting the town of Ripley, another significant player in the anti-slavery movement. I will have much to blog about tomorrow, as these sites are well documented. The Ohio River Valley is proud of its role in the freedom trail and has done an excellent job of documenting and preserving this important part of our history.

I passed near Augusta today, where the only two Kentucky sites listed as members of the Park Service’s National Underground Railroad Network to Freedom Program are located. One is the farm of John Gregg Fee, Kentucky’s most outspoken abolitionist and founder of Berea College. The other is White Hall, the home of abolitionists and Underground Railroad conductors Arthur Thome and his son James. Unfortunately, neither site is open to the public.

The weather last night in Dry Ridge was anything but dry. The nice folks at the I-75 Campground were kind enough to let me put my tent, bike and gear on the screen porch of a vacant cabin, so I didn’t get blown away by the storm. The folks at Cracker Barrel were also great –

very interested in what I was doing – and even gave me my dinner on the house! I continue to be delighted (but not surprised) at the kindness extended to me by everyone I meet on this journey. God bless ‘em all!

Since this is my last night in Kentucky, it is time to set the record straight about loose dogs, When I was researching this trip, the word was that Kentucky had the worst reputation for dog encounters with cyclists. I’m here to tell you it just isn’t true. In fact, Kentucky dogs are the best. They are either fenced, tied up, or exceedingly well-behaved. I was only chased once today, and even then the pup conducted himself in a most respectful manner in regards to rules of engagement. From my experience thus far, Mississippi takes the prize for most loose and ill-mannered canines per mile.

In spite of my numerous encounters with dogs since leaving Pensacola, I have not had to use pepper spray even once. My trusty EcoBlast rechargeable air horn has stopped all but one dog in its tracks (and he just wanted to “tag” me for sport). I heartily endorse the EcoBlast as the humane and environmentally-friendly way (you just use your bike pump to refill it) to handle those overzealous canines who want to mix it up with you. As you can see from the picture, I keep mine in the water bottle holder directly behind my seat. I think of it as my “holster” and have become quite adept at quickly drawing my weapon while pedaling furiously (I only use it if I can’t outrun the dog).

Time to call it a night – I am looking forward to rolling into Ohio in the morning. Keep those comments and contributions to the cause coming in, and check back tomorrow night for the latest blog update. Peace be with you!

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My Old Kentucky Home

2009-05-01T18:48:00.009-05:00

It’s been a great day back in Kentucky, a pleasant ride through the rolling hills of some beautiful rural scenery. The skies were threatening, but once again the rain never materialized. My good fortune with weather on this journey has been remarkable. I was chased by three dogs and an Alpaca.

Okay, he didn’t actually chase me but he was in the road with me – I wanted to take his picture but his canine companion wouldn’t allow me the opportunity – I guess he had escaped from his pasture and the dog was trying to herd him back home). You never know what you are going to encounter on these roads!

I spent a little time this morning visiting the historic sites in Madison before crossing the river back into Kentucky. One neighborhood, Georgetown, has a significant connection to the Underground Railroad. This was where the city’s early free African-Americans settled, and this church,

the African Methodist Episcopal (AME) Church (built in 1850) was where they worshipped. It is one of the oldest buildings of its kind in America.

Riding into Madison yesterday, I passed by Lancaster, Indiana, home of Eleutherian College. The founders of this college were actively involved in the Underground Railroad as conductors and in providing safe houses to freedom seekers. The school was opened in 1848 as an egalitarian place of higher learning, where students of any race or gender could get an education. The college was also linked to the “Anti-Slavery Baptist Church,” whose congregation met in the college chapel.

In Carrollton today I crossed the Kentucky River before making a rather steep climb to Eagle Station and then on to Sparta, where I had fried cod for lunch at the Sparta Store & Deli. It was the Friday special, so I couldn’t resist. The store is a typical general store with a rather disorganized

eclectic mix of groceries and supplies. There is one table in the place to sit if you want to eat and the menu is simple – fried cod and fries. They have one bathroom with a non-working sink, so you have to go through the kitchen and wash your hands where they wash the dishes. A little scary, but the fish was good nonetheless.

After leaving Sparta, I took a real back road that followed the railroad tracks most of the way until I had to make another steep climb into Dry Ridge. This is where I am camping tonight, although it is doubtful that the ridge will stay dry through the night. Not a problem, as I have the tent fly well secured

and ready for whatever blows my way. Tomorrow I continue my route through Kentucky. It has shifted more away from the river today, but in a couple of days I will be back alongside it just southeast of Cincinnati. If the weather holds out, I should make it to Cincinnati by Monday night. Thank you for your wonderful words of support and your contributions to this extreme fundraising campaign. Together we are keeping the public radio machine cranking along. I will continue blogging through the weekend, so stay tuned ...

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On the Road Again

2009-04-30T23:59:00.011-05:00

Not the prettiest weather, but it’s great to be back on the road today. After a restful break in New Albany, it felt really good to be back in the saddle. It was a wonderful stay with Bob and Serena Weiss – they win the most hospitable people in the universe award for their kindness and generosity – royal treatment and even the use of their sporty car to peruse Louisville. Amidst the wining and dining, I had my first piece of Derby Pie (okay, two pieces). It is Derby Week after all. They invited me to stay as long as I wanted, and believe me it was tempting.

It was a very special time and a visit I won’t forget (but I was taking a break, so I’m not giving any more details). The folks at Jeffersonville Schwinn & Sport did an awesome tune-up on my bike, and that combined with a great tailwind today enabled me to average 16 mph and make quick work of the 57 miles to Madison, Indiana. That’s where I am tonight; hiding from the rain in a motel overlooking the bridge I will take in the morning back into Kentucky for the next few days.

The back roads I am taking follow the banks of the Ohio River very closely, so it really gives me a feel for what the freedom seekers on the Underground Railroad must have experienced. Of course, have many bridges to choose from to cross back and forth between Indiana and Kentucky. None of these bridges existed until after the Civil War, so slaves escaping through Kentucky could only get to Indiana by boat, on foot (if the river was frozen), or by swimming (which was nearly impossible in the swift current). The problem was further complicated by the fact that those who did cross successfully were just as likely to be greeted on the Indiana shore by bounty hunters as by sympathizers.

The Second Presbyterian Church in New Albany, Indiana was a safe haven for freedom seekers. Members of this congregation were openly supportive of the Underground Railroad and actively served as conductors, sheltering runaway slaves and assisting them in moving further North. There are small openings and rooms in the dirt basement of the church that remain today just as they were when used to shelter fugitive slaves. New Albany and Southeastern Indiana has a rich history with the Underground Railroad which is well documented in an exhibit at the Carnegie Center for Art & History in downtown New Albany.

Here are some of the slave artifacts from the exhibit – chains used to restrain movement and deter escape and actual documents pertaining to the sale of a slave. As I continue to move north, the number of documented sites and stories will increase. Here is where organized groups of people like the Quakers and Presbyterians took an active role in shepherding them to freedom.

The scenery in Indiana is beautiful. Today as I approached Madison, I rode through Clifty Falls State Park – parts of it were breathtaking. Once again, I appreciate being able to follow the back roads and enjoy the people and places that you seldom see when traveling by car. I know this because I seldom see any cars. Oh, by the way, add one more dog to the chase total for today.

I need to call it a night. I plan to do some exploring here in Madison tomorrow before heading across the river. There are several interesting historical sites I’ll be blogging about tomorrow. Check back with me then...

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Through the Back Door

2009-04-26T23:50:00.007-05:00

After a restful night camping beside Holy Trinity Episcopal Church in Brandenburg, I enjoyed a big breakfast at Perna’s Place (I didn’t really have to use the back door) before sharing Eucharist with the congregation. What a delightful group of fellow Episcopalians!

After leaving Brandenburg, it was a short hop across the Ohio River into Indiana for a pleasant afternoon ride through the rolling hills leading to New Albany, where I ended my day’s journey.

For those of you who worry about my safety riding in traffic, here’s a picture I took today as I was leaving Corydon, Indiana. This is typical of the kind of back roads I have been travelling on this trip. The Adventure Cycling Association folks who map these routes go to great lengths to avoid the main roads and as a result, I get to enjoy a safe, scenic and tranquil ride. There is the occasional loose dog, but since we established the dollar-a-dog pledge level they have all but abandoned me. For those keeping track, I have only been chased four times since Thursday.

I had lunch today at Magdalena’s Café in downtown Corydon, right across the street from the Capitol Building. The capital of Indiana Territory was moved to Corydon from Vincennes in 1813 and this building became the first State Capitol in 1816, before the capital was moved to Indianapolis in 1825.

You know you are in Indiana when you start to see these signs. White Castle is somewhat of a sacred tradition for folks living in this part of the country. I’m not a big fan of “sliders” myself, but I do appreciate their significance as a Midwestern cultural icon.

As I mentioned earlier, I made it to New Albany today, which is located directly across the river from Louisville, Kentucky. It’s Derby Week, although I won’t be staying around for the big race. I have the good fortune of being hosted by Bob and Serena Weiss, who live just outside of New Albany.

Serena is the sister of WUWF’s own Joe Vincenza, and she and Bob are most gracious to allow me the opportunity to take a break from the road. Since I have ridden for three weeks without a break, I am going to take my bike to the local bike shop for some minor repairs in the morning and then after my morning and afternoon reports on air, I am going off-road and off-line for a couple of days. Don’t worry about me and don’t expect another report or blog entry until Thursday when I am back on the road.

Thank you for following along and special thanks to those of you who have contributed to this extreme fundraising campaign. If you haven’t made your contribution, you can do it right here online. Together we are enjoying a great adventure and supporting a great cause – the programs you love on public radio.

Louisville is approximately half way to my final destination in Ontario, as I have logged close to 1100 miles. Take care and check back on Thursday as the journey continues.

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Hooking Up in Brandenburg

2009-04-25T18:46:00.027-05:00

... to the internet, that is.

After a breakdown in communications while camping in the wild last night, it was more than a pleasant surprise while rolling along the waterfront in Brandenburg, KY to stumble upon the Main Street Café.

It's an Internet café in a restored historic property overlooking the Ohio River.

This place is a blogger’s dream come true - great food and connectivity! If you come anywhere near Brandenburg, a visit to the Main Street Café is a must.

Here is a picture of my communications equipment that I use when there is no connectivity. I prepare my blog and pictures on my Netbook, transfer the files to my smart phone, and use the phone to send the blog to WUWF’s Internet guru John Macdonell. This has worked perfectly the entire trip until last night.

Apparently I was in an area where competing service providers don’t play nice, so I was shut out by one of Verizon’s competitors. By tomorrow I should be in a friendlier cell zone again.

Passing this buggy warning sign today reminded me of growing up in the Shenandoah Valley of Virginia with its Mennonite population. Apparently this area has quite a few Mennonite, Amish, and Quaker families. All of these folks played a significant role in the

Underground Railroad, shepherding runaway slaves across the river to freedom.

Thanks to the efforts of David Reed, retired Bishop of Kentucky, I am camping tonight next to Holy Trinity Episcopal Church here in Brandenburg. I will be up early in the morning to pack up the bike and look forward to attending the service before heading out towards New Albany, Indiana. Tomorrow will be my first foray into the Hoosier State on this trip. Oh well, time for me to wrap this up and set up camp for the night. Check back with me tomorrow.

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The Hundred Acre Wood

2009-04-24T18:00:00.004-05:00

(Blog entry delayed due to technical problems.)This picture doesn’t even come close to capturing the beauty and tranquility of the spot where I’m camping tonight in Vastwood Park, a county park located about 2 miles north of Hawesville, KY. It is clear but breezy with the temperature around 78 degrees. Today’s ride was relatively short (39 miles) and easy – I arrived in Hawesville around lunch time and had the vegetable plate at Irby’s Restaurant on Main Street before heading to the campground.

You can see the bridge crossing the Ohio River to Indiana in the background. The roads I am riding are closely following the Ohio River as it twists and turns, outlining the Western border of Kentucky. I have actually been riding more East than North the past few days. The Underground Railroad Route follows the rivers,

so it is by no means a straight shot North. If you check out the satellite image map, you will see that I am beginning my Eastern arc to align myself with Ohio and ultimately Niagara where I will cross over into Canada. The mileage from Pensacola to Ontario would be much less on a more deliberate Northern route, but that’s not the point of this journey.

I am meeting a lot of nice folks here at Vastwood. It is a popular camping place for the locals on the weekends, and it is the weekend after all (although I tend to lose track of the days on the road). I need to get to bed early tonight and get an early start in the morning – it’s about 60 miles to Brandenburg, tomorrow’s destination.

Your comments continue to keep me amused and motivated. As to the question today about supplements, I take only Glucosamine for my knees and I drink a soy protein shake that I mix with milk every day to give me the vitamins and minerals I need. An occasional sweet tea or Coke gives me my caffeine kick when I need it. Otherwise, the excitement of the trip itself keeps me fired up and ready to ride every day.

I will continue to blog through the weekend, so don’t forget to check back tomorrow. Thanks for following – catch you later!

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Roadside Pleasures

2009-04-23T21:04:00.008-05:00

One of the pleasures of a slow ride on the back roads of America is the discovery of great little meeting and eating places. Del’s Place in Stanley, Kentucky is one such place. When you walk in the door, you know the patrons are all locals, all friends and family, and all ready to welcome you into the fold.

Listening to their views on politics, religion, or whatever is on their minds is fascinating. Spend a few weeks with folks like these and you will really develop a sense of the American spirit and guess what - it’s nothing like the pundits, politicos, and other wackos who dominate the mainstream media would have you believe.

Here’s a shot of the Glover Cary Bridge spanning the Ohio River on the Kentucky urban camping at a Budget Inn downtown. As a border slave state, Kentucky played a major role in the Underground Railroad. Sympathizers helped runaway slaves get across the Ohio River into the free states beyond.

On the other hand, it also played a major role in the marketing and transportation of slaves to Louisiana and elsewhere in the Deep South. In fact, the expression “sold down the river” originated in Kentucky.

I’m still feeling great and making good progress. Your comments and encouragement are most appreciated, as are your contributions in support of public radio. I am thoroughly enjoying every aspect of this adventure, but let’s not forget that the main reason I am doing this is to raise money to pay for the programs you enjoy on WUWF. And EVERY PENNY raised is going directly to that cause – I am covering all of my expenses (food, equipment, supplies, lodging) with my own money.

Tomorrow I continue to follow the winding roads along both sides of the Ohio River, weaving in and out of Kentucky and Indiana over the next few days. Keep tuning into WUWF for my morning (7:35am) and afternoon (4:30pm) reports from the road, and check back here tomorrow for my next blog. Thanks for coming along!

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ObamaNation

2009-04-22T23:00:00.000-05:00

Time for a new slogan for Illinois? Maybe. I spent the first half of today riding north along the west bank of the Ohio River in Southern Illinois, crossing back over in Kentucky near Shawnee Town. Although it was a bit chilly starting out, it soon warmed up and the weather was perfect for a long day of hill climbing in both states. I rode within 75 miles of Carbondale, where I had my first real public radio job at Southern Illinois University in 1979. One of my mentors, a genuine old time radio guy, said if I didn’t start smoking and drinking coffee I would never make it in the business. I guess I proved him wrong on both counts.

Before bidding farewell to Cave In Rock, I enjoyed a great breakfast and more conversation at GeeJay’s Café. The folks there are especially nice. I took this picture of the Opry House across the street before I left. Oh – before I forget – for those of you keeping track of the dog chases, yesterday there were lots of yard runners but only one chase. Today there were four. Here’s a picture of a sweet dog from my stay in Gainesville, Alabama on Easter.

His name is Buddy and he kept watch over me. Actually, he wanted to get in the tent. He was fine until I would get on my bike and then he would bark at me like all the other dogs.

One other piece of business from my visit yesterday to The Gower House. This is the flip side of the historic marker in front of the house. I tell you, Smithland was one popular place.

I don’t think George Washington ever slept there, but everyone else did.

It’s going to be cold here in the morning where I’m camping in Henderson, KY. I’ll probably have to shove the hand dryer in the bath house up under my jacket to get warm like I did this morning at the campground in Cave In Rock. Right now I have to sneak over to the parking lot of the Comfort Inn down the road to see if I can jump on their Wi-Fi and send this blog. You have to be resourceful out here on the road.

Tomorrow I’m heading for Owensboro. Catch you later ...

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Inn of Legends

2009-04-21T22:37:00.026-05:00

On the south bank at the confluence of the Cumberland and Ohio Rivers in Smithland, Kentucky stands the shell of The Gower House, once a grand meeting place for some of the most influential figures in American history. Among the famous that are reported to have slept at the Inn are: Abraham Lincoln, Andrew Jackson, Aaron Burr, John James Audubon, and Benedict Arnold. Ulysses S. Grant and his troops are said to have drank from the mineral well in the courtyard. Local folk lore reports that President Zachary Taylor was informed of his election to the Presidency while staying at the Inn.

Henry Clay is rumored to have held court under the old elm tree that was in front of the Inn. Dubbed "Judge Elm", it is reputed to have been the site of the first hanging in Western Kentucky. The tree no longer exits, having been struck by lightning some years ago. A very ingenious person took the remains and carved a statue of Clay. The wooden likeness was housed in a veranda next to The Gower House, however it has since disintegrated.

Built between 1820 and 1825, the Gower House was a 35 to 40 room inn for weary travelers. The architecture is described as Georgian or Early Federal, similar to that of colonial New England homes, taverns, and hotels. All the wall structures are 16 inches in depth and solid brick. The foundation is formed of limestone rock, some measuring as large as three by six feet.

It was constructed in a U shape with verandas overlooking the center courtyard. A mineral well was situated in the center of this area. A fire in 1857 destroyed half the building, leaving the present L shaped structure. A Methodist Minister's conference was being held at the time and it is said that they formed a bucket brigade to the river to extinguish the fire.

The Gower House does have an interesting connection to the Underground Railroad. Legend has it that slaves used an underground tunnel connecting the Massey House, located a few blocks away, to The Gower House.

From there, the runaway slaves were loaded onto boats and escaped across the river to Illinois and freedom. The Massey House is purported to have a hidden opening in a closet floor. Descendants of Massey have spoken about a trap door in the floor of a closet that could only be opened from the inside. Leslie McDonald, in his book "Echoes of Yesteryear", states that there is evidence of a tunnel there. Could this be the tunnel used to help the slaves escape imprisonment? No one can be sure as the current owners of the Massey House are reportedly unwilling to let visitors explore their closets and as you can see the house is in ruins and about to be overwhelmed by nature. Presently the Gower House itself sits gutted and unused. The hand-hewn mantles and floors have long since been discarded and lost to time. What a shame that these two historic structures are being lost, particularly if the connection to the Underground Railroad might be proven with a little research and investigation.

While visiting The Gower House was one of the highlights of my ride today, traveling by ferry across the Ohio River was great fun as well. It’s just a short hop across the river into Illinois and the village of Cave In Rock.

Here’s a shot of the state park where I’m camping tonight taken from the ferry. And one from the park looking out over the Ohio River toward Kentucky.

I spent about two hours visiting with some locals and enjoying a great meal at GeeJay’s Café (thanks for the tip, Josh).

Then I pitched my tent on a nice high point above the river and settled in for the night.

Note the extensive damage to the trees in the background as a result of the winter ice storm earlier this year.

Oh well, time for sleep – got to hit the road early tomorrow for a long ride. Check back tomorrow ...

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Prairie Home Companions

2009-04-20T10:00:00.009-05:00

When I started out from Dover this morning, it looked like it was going to be another rainy day. After a couple of hours of riding a strong headwind out of the north really slowed me down, but it did blow the rain clouds to the south and afforded me a beautiful blue sky.

This lasted until mid afternoon when the wind pushed in another storm front and gave me a brief but soaking shower. Since then it has been raining off and on and the temperature has dropped considerably.

Most of my ride today was through the Land Between the Lakes National Recreation Area (or “LBL” as the locals call it), a beautiful nature and wildlife preserve that runs between Kentucky Lake (fed by the Tennessee River) and Lake Barkley (fed by the Cumberland River). This herd of American Bison was grazing in the Elk & Bison Prairie, a 700-acre restoration of Kentucky’s native barrens as they existed during the time when this area was populated by Native Americans. The Bison did not chase me. In fact, nothing chased me today. I guess a nature preserve is a pretty safe place to ride.

This is the remains of the Great Western Furnace. Built in 1854 by Brian, Newall & Company, this steam cold-blast charcoal furnace was built of limestone from the surrounding hills. Brown iron-ore came from shallow deposits nearby.

The pig-iron produced by this furnace was shipped by river or hauled to rolling mills to the east. It closed after only two years, due to a lack of sufficient ore, a slave insurrection by the furnace crew, and the fact that the owners had overextended themselves with other investments. I guess they didn’t qualify for the economic stimulus package of 1856.

Tonight I am staying in Grand Rivers, Kentucky, the village between the lakes, a couple of miles north of LBL. For those of you who are keeping track of the good eating places, Patti’s 1880’s Settlement & Restaurant is a must. They are known for their world famous pork chops and amazing desserts – I had the chop and the most amazing piece of Chess pie I have ever tasted – five stars for sure!

LBL and Grand Rivers really experienced a nasty ice storm this winter and the damage to the trees is still very visible. I had hoped to camp at the Corps of Engineers campground on the canal here in Grand Rivers, but the storm completely wiped it out. Some of the trails in LBL are still closed because of downed trees. The ride today was really hilly and with the overall elevation rising, it was a series of climbs and plateaus with not many downhill glides.

It was a beautiful day nonetheless, and I am grateful for the mostly great weather I have had so far. Today is the first day of my third week on the road – I have now ridden 750 miles.

Your comments and contributions to this fundraising adventure are most appreciated. Thanks for the dromedary challenge, Jim – will you triple your pledge if I get a camel to chase me? Let’s continue to have fun with this trip and preserve public radio as well. It’s great having so many of you following along.

Oh well, time to wrap up – if all goes well tomorrow I’ll be camping at Cave In Rock in Southern Illinois. Catch you later...

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On the Battlefield

2009-04-19T21:54:00.000-05:00

The rain finally caught up with me in Waverly. It started about midnight and was still coming down hard this morning. I debated with myself about trying to ride in it and finally decided to go for it around 11:00AM (check out time at the motel where I was staying).

I put all the rain gear on the bike and me and headed out just as the rain really started to pick up. There was no electrical activity in the sky, so I just got a good soaking for the first 30 miles of my ride. About 20 miles from Dover, the dark clouds turned fluffy white and the sun came out, so I was able to mostly dry out by the time I reached the southern end to Land Between the Lakes.

I checked into the Dover Inn and within an hour the rain started again and hasn’t let up yet. I have been so lucky with the weather! I visited Fort Donelson National Battlefield, scene of the first Civil War battle won by the Union Army. It was a crucial Union victory that opened the door to an offensive into the heart of the Confederacy.

These are some of the man-made earthen walls and trenches made by the Confederate soldiers in their failed attempt to defend the fort.

This victory by General Ulysses S. Grant and his troops, along with the taking of Fort Henry in Tennessee and Fort Heiman in Kentucky, dramatically bettered the situation for thousands of enslaved persons in both Tennessee and Kentucky. They now had friendly havens within slave territory, with Union soldiers now occupying these forts and controlling the rivers they were located on throughout the rest of the war.

The soldiers helped freedom seekers escape to free states. Even soldier’s wives and other local women came to their aid. The signing of the Second Confiscation Act of July 1862 permitted the emancipation of secessionists’ slaves that entered Union lines. By 1863, Fort Donelson saw the creation of a freedmen’s camp, with former slaves building their own homes. Later that same year, Fort Donelson became a recruiting station for African-Americans.I’m hoping that the rain passes through tonight.

Even with the foul weather today, five dogs rose to the occasion and engaged in bonafide chases (for those of you keeping count). The most exciting chase was with a St. Bernard mix – he was HUGE and fast – and he was determined. As I came around a curve with him in pursuit, I noticed a pair of mutts on the side of a hill just sitting and watching. I figure they must be accustomed to his favorite sport – sort of a cheering section. Oh well, I’m just doing my part, keeping the canines entertained. I’ll be in Kentucky before lunch tomorrow. Catch up with you later.

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Humping Through the Hills of Tennessee

2009-04-18T17:09:00.006-05:00

Lame caption, I know, but I couldn’t resist. This dromedary was not what I was expecting along the back roads of western Tennessee, but sure enough there he was this morning as I left Mousetail Landing heading toward Waverly. Tradition has it that Mousetail Landing got its name during the Civil War period when one of the area’s tanning companies caught fire. The exodus of mice fleeing the burning tannery was so profuse that this area became known as Mousetail Landing.

Last night I camped primitive style and was visited throughout the night by the various wildlife that populates this area. They kept noisily snooping around my tent until I finally told them to beat it so I could get some sleep. I was on the road shortly after sunrise today in order to beat the storm front that is rapidly moving into the area. The ride went well and I made it to Waverly by early afternoon.

I even found time to make a side trip off route to have lunch at Cissie Lynn’s Country Store & Dance Barn. I was told her burgers were the best around, so I had one cooked by Cissie herself. Fried bologna sandwiches are her specialty (fixed just the way her mama Loretta taught her), but I opted for the burger and a piece of Chess cake. Here’s a picture of us as I was getting ready to hit the road again.

Your comments are great! Several of you are taking the dollar-a-dog challenge, so I will keep you updated daily with a head count of the number of bonafide chases since I started keeping track (too bad I didn’t start tracking from day one – Alabama had quite a few). I only consider a dog encounter a “chase” if the dog actually gets in the road with me and goes for it. Barking while fenced, tied up, or merely running along with me but not leaving the yard doesn’t count. Using that criteria, here are my stats since last Wednesday (4/15):

4/15: 17 (in only 30 miles!)
4/16: 0 (good for me, bad for fundraising)
4/17: 4
4/18: 7

Okay, that’s it so far. On the one hand, I want to raise a lot of money, but I really don’t enjoy getting chased. Oh well, we might as well have fun with this – I am! If the weather doesn’t shut me down, I’ll be heading for the Land Between the Lakes and Kentucky in the morning.

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The Mighty Tennessee

2009-04-17T19:35:00.016-05:00

The weather could not have been more perfect today as I crossed another section of the beautiful Tennessee River near Saltillo. I had a nice afternoon yesterday in Savannah and visited the burial site of Alex and Queen Haley, the grandparents of Roots author Alex Haley. I left my camera in my room, so I didn’t get a picture.

The terrain is definitely getting more hilly as I move north through the state and my legs are feeling it. All in all, the bike and I are both holding up pretty well. I may have to adjust my daily mileage expectation, as the locals here tell me the hills I climbed today are nothing compared to what tomorrow will bring. I had a great lunch at a meat n’ three establishment, The Midway Café, in Decaturville. The folks there were really nice and one gentleman even paid for my lunch – people are inherently kind and good – don’t believe otherwise.

Tonight I am camping in a heavily wooded area called Mousetail Landing. Getting here was fun – the last mile was about a 45 degree incline – I pushed the bike most of the way up and even that was a chore. Oh well, at least I get a nice ride downhill first thing in the morning. I’m going to try to get an early start and see if I can beat the rain that is forecast for the weekend.

I will continue to post my blogs through the weekend, even though I won’t be making any live call-in reports again until Monday morning. I continue to enjoy the many comments you are making and the words of advice and encouragement. If you have a question that you want me to respond to you directly about, make sure you put your e-mail address in the comment. I also appreciate so very much the contributions you are making to this important cause. Take care and I’ll be in touch tomorrow.

P.S. – Wouldn’t you know it – right after I come up with my Dollar-A-Dog idea, I have no encounters today. I’m not complaining – it’ll be hard to outrun anything on these hills!

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Sunrise in Tishomingo

2009-04-17T06:07:00.005-05:00

After enjoying a beautifully misty sunrise along with my duck friends in Tishomingo State Park, it was time to head north once again. Today I decided to take an alternate route running parallel to the Underground Railroad Route about five miles to the east (I know, pretty risky for the directionally challenged one) because I wanted to more closely follow the Tennessee Tombigbee Waterway to the place where it joins the Tennessee River. This happens right at the point where Alabama, Mississippi, and Tennessee all converge. Pickwick Lake to be precise.

I took this photo as I crossed the Tennessee River at Pickwick Dam. Although I bypassed Shiloh, I much preferred seeing this, particularly after following the Tenn-Tom Waterway all this way. Of course, this man-made wonder didn’t even exist during the time of the Underground Railroad, but the Tennessee River sure did and played a crucial role in the escape route to the north.

As I rode today, I reflected on the relationship between my fundraising mission and dog encounters. As I have said before, a big part of this adventure is to make you aware of the need to preserve public radio, a great national treasure enjoyed by millions of discerning listeners like you. The family dog is charged with the responsibility of preserving its family’s property. We are both determined to succeed. Now I have no interest in disturbing anything in that dog’s world, but he doesn’t know that and can’t take any chances.

I can respect that. I have to keep reminding you that this is a FUNDRAISING adventure for the same reason. Having said that, and given the frequency of dog encounters on this trip, I am proposing a dollar-a-dog pledge level. If I can raise one buck from enough people for every dog that chases me on this trip, we can keep public radio around for a long time. What inspired this idea was the unusually large number of dogs I encountered on Wednesday. I was chased 17 times! I outran 15 of them and the air horn stopped the other 2. So far I have not had to unholster the pepper spray even once.

I have learned how to predict the frequency of dog encounters by studying the maps. State roads are the least likely places to find loose canines. Moderate to heavy traffic tends to inspire dog owners to fence in their pets, lest they become road kill. Encounters on county roads are more likely, but the road I traveled on Wednesday was the perfect storm – one named after a local politician without any sort of numerical designation (only referred to by locals as “the north road”) a place you know you’ll be on your own and every dog along the way will consider the section in front of their yard their property. So check those maps before you ride and get yourself an air horn.

Thanks as always to those of you who have made a contribution to this campaign. If you get a chance, let one or more of our corporate sponsors know how much you appreciate their support of public radio. It’s good to be in Tennessee – I’ve traveled about 550 miles since leaving Pensacola on April 6th. Check back in with me tomorrow.

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Wheeling into Tishomingo

2009-04-16T06:57:00.046-05:00

It has been another fabulous day of riding in North Mississippi. When I left Fulton this morning, it was cold and dreary, but by early afternoon the sun shone brightly and it was all good. By the time I took this picture coming in Tishomingo, I felt like Mother Nature was giving me her full embrace.

I was well rested after a great evening with Carl and Nan Comer and so appreciative of their fine Southern hospitality. I went off route today to check out one of the many locks I have been passing as I rode alongside the Tennessee Tombigbee Waterway. The lock at Bay Springs caught my attention because of its sheer size.

You can see in this picture how it dwarfs the barge being pushed inside. I learned that it is the third largest lock in America, with the water level from the low to the high side rising 88 feet. Here is a shot of the high side of the dam. I had a picnic on the shore and watched the barge make the trip through the lock. One of the benefits of this trip is taking the time to observe things like this.

While I was exploring Bay Springs Lake, I came across this old frontier cabin. Apparently this was a fairly common design by early settlers to the area and was often used to house two families. The cooking area was separated from the sleeping area by the open porch. They were given the nickname “dog trot” cabins because the dogs could run through the common area.

For part of the trip today the Underground Railroad Route joined the Natchez Trace. This was a beautiful ride, but far too short – only ten miles. I, of course, stretched it to twenty-two miles by riding in the wrong direction for six miles. No surprise here. Oh well, it was worth seeing that stretch twice!

Thanks for all the great comments I’m getting. Ken B. – thanks for the dining tips. I eagerly anticipated those fist-sized hush puppies at Country Boys, but alas, they have gone out of business – bummer! If all goes well tomorrow, I will be crossing into Tennessee by midday. I am now a quarter of the way to Owen Sound, Ontario! Having you follow along online really means a lot to me – I never feel alone out here. See you tomorrow!

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Good Eating Today!

2009-04-15T06:29:00.030-05:00

The day got off to a good start with a magnificent sunrise over Aberdeen Lake. After a brief shower last night, a cool dry breeze prevailed and pretty much dried everything off by morning. The air felt so refreshing and the geese and turtles kept me amused while I started packing up.

Even the fact that I had yet another flat tire did not spoil the mood, although this scene is getting too familiar. Not to worry, though. By the end of the day the mysterious tire problem would be resolved.

About an hour after sunrise a cold front moved in fast, dropping the temperature to the high 40s and bringing with it dark foreboding cloud cover. The entire ride to Fulton was cold and dreary, but it never rained – I still seem to be having great luck avoiding the wacky weather that seems to be all around.

I was hoping to score some local cuisine on my route today when I stumbled upon Bill’s Burgers in downtown Amory. For the record, I had mine “with”, a radical departure for this ketchup-only guy. I enjoyed the great burger and the opportunity to warm up a bit before pressing on.

My visit to Fulton is being hosted by Carl and Nan Comer. They are Fulton natives who graciously invited me into their beautiful home and fed me a delicious dinner. Their hospitality is outstanding – while Nan did my laundry, Carl drove me to Tupelo to find the nearest cycle shop.

We found it and the guy running the place discovered a tiny piece of wire lodged in my rear tire. He successfully removed it and hopefully with it my deflating tire mystery. Yea! Special thanks to my friend Bill Ford who introduced me to these fine folks.

While in Tupelo I saw Elvis’ birthplace, but didn’t have my camera with me to capture the moment. I have had no Elvis sightings during my time in Mississippi. Oh well, I’ll keep looking.

Tune in to WUWF (at 88.1 FM or wuwf.org) at 7:30 a.m. and 4:30 p.m. or visit my media archives to listen to my phone reports and to find out where I’m headed next. Blog you tomorrow!

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Light from Darkness

2009-04-14T06:43:00.011-05:00

I was in my tent waiting out a passing storm and working on this blog when I glanced up and saw this beautiful rainbow right in the midst of the gathering storm clouds. Wow – the picture doesn’t do it justice.

I am camping tonight (Monday 4/13) on Aberdeen Lake, my tent literally five feet from the water and I am surrounded by Canadian geese (snow birds, perhaps?). I am beginning to really like this nomadic back to nature way of life.

After the storm from last night passed this morning, the ride from Columbus went well. This part of Mississippi is flatter and more farm-like than the roads I’ve traveled in Alabama. I actually miss the hills and timberland. Oh well, I’ll be in Tennessee soon enough and be wishing for a long flat road.

I crossed the Tennessee – Tombigbee Waterway today. It is a 234-mile artificial waterway that connects the Tennessee and Tombigbee rivers. The idea was born in 1760, but it took until 1946 for Congress to approve it and construction didn’t begin until 1971. Over the next 15 years, environmentalists and the L&N Railroad filed numerous lawsuits to stop it, but finally after 12 years of construction, the waterway and its 17 public ports and terminals opened to commercial traffic in 1985. Okay, that’s your history lesson for today.

Here’s another picture of my campsite at Aberdeen Lake. I am grateful for the opportunity to experience this kind of beauty and adventure and appreciate that you are following along.

I also appreciate the many comments that you have been making (keep it up) and the contributions you have been making to this important campaign for WUWF (keep that up too!) I was asked today why I hadn’t commented on my physical condition like I did on my walk to Washington (it was all about the feet, after all). Well, everything is working nicely for both me and the bike – except for the rear tire, which is on its third tube and still can’t stay fully inflated for more than a few hours.

Okay, you seasoned cyclists out there, any ideas? I have checked the rim for spurs and the tire for any foreign objects and I can’t see anything. Any and all advice is appreciated. I’m heading for Fulton in the morning. Tune in at 7:30am during Morning Edition for the latest update.

Peace out!

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Weekend Update

2009-04-13T11:48:00.030-05:00

I was getting really hungry on Saturday when I happened upon this roadside catfish stand near Epes, AL. It was pretty much in the middle of nowhere, but the fried catfish was probably the best I ever tasted.

It was not a “have it your way” kind of place – what you get is four generous portions of fish squeezed between two pieces of Bunny Bread and garnished with ketchup.

It gave me the boost I needed to get to my next destination – Gainesville. Actually I hadn’t planned on stopping in Gainesville, but rather hoped to get to the Corps of Engineers campground in Cochrane.

I was unsuccessful in getting anyone to answer the phone at the campground, so I asked a gentleman who was putting some supplies in his truck in downtown Gainesville about camping possibilities. That turned out to be my luckiest move of the day. He introduced himself as Charles McGough and immediately invited me camp on his property. What a beautiful place it is – a stately antebellum home built in 1840, a booming time when Gainesville was the third largest city in Alabama.

Since that time the town has lost most of its industry and the population has dwindled to around 200 folks, but it is a beautiful and serene place. Charles works out of New Orleans, but he and his wife Margaret chose to settle in Gainesville (her hometown) to raise their four children.

I pitched my tent on a part of his property where he often cooks and feeds everyone from Civil War reinactors to wayward cyclists like me. Tonight would be just such a night, as he prepared a delicious campfire bean and beef dish on the open fire while Margaret made corn bread in a big iron skillet.

YUM!! We enjoyed a great meal and conversation around the campfire before calling it a night.

I really appreciated their hospitality and allowing me to share some time with them in their little piece of paradise.

I learned some interesting facts about Gainesville. There are four churches in town: Presbyterian, Methodist, Baptist and Episcopal.

Because there are not enough people to support that many churches, the four take turns, each one taking one Sunday a month.

The combined congregations worship together at the designated church each Sunday.
The highlight of Easter Sunday for me was attending the Gainesville community sunrise service. The folks there greeted me with open arms – the message and the music was good, as was the breakfast.

I particularly enjoyed visiting with Miss Daisy Pruitt (she’s on the right in this photo) and the other Matriarchs of Gainesville.

After the sunrise service, I rode 70 miles to Columbus, MS. The weather was looking really threatening, so I checked into a motel. Good choice – a severe thunderstorm raged most of the night. This morning (Monday) things are looking much better as I head for Aberdeen.

I’ll be talking by phone to John Lowe’s 8th graders at Ransom Middle School in just a bit. I’m looking forward to that and to another beautiful day on the road.

Large versions of all my blog pics can be found at my photo gallery.

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Chillin’ in Linden

2009-04-11T06:30:00.010-05:00

Anticipating rain this morning (Friday April 10th), I had my full rain gear on the bike as I left the Coffeeville Dairy Bar. Leaving as soon as the sun came up, I covered the 56 miles to Linden by early afternoon (ahead of the rain). It was another great ride through scenic rolling hills.

No canine buddies today, but another flat tire (bummer!). As soon as I rolled into town, I checked in to the Linden Inn. After a hot shower and a nap, I did some laundry and bike maintenance. Now I am relaxing and mapping out tomorrow’s route.

My late night blog when I was at Hubbard’s Landing got lost in the Ethernet. That was the night I was treated to dinner at the Stagecoach Restaurant in Stockton by loyal WUWF supporters Jim and Marianne Eddins. They operate the Perdido Vineyards, one of several burgeoning wineries in Alabama. I enjoyed a bottle of their muscadine grape juice with my breakfast the next morning. Thank you Jim and Marianne!

While I will be continuing my trek over the weekend, I won’t be blogging again until Monday. Also on Monday I will be calling John Lowe’s 8th Grade reading class at Ransom Middle School to begin my weekly dialogue with them about the Underground Railroad.

Have a blessed weekend and tune in Monday morning for more news from the road.

Large versions of all my blog pics can be found at my photo gallery.
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Hills, Headwinds, and Hound Dogs

2009-04-09T19:29:00.034-05:00

Another great day of riding through the scenic timber country of North Alabama. These rural roads are beautiful and remain virtually traffic-free. I see more dogs than cars and even look forward to the chase – one little guy chased me for more than a quarter mile today – I was afraid he might hyperventilate. The people I encounter along the road are warm and friendly, always waving and wishing me luck.

I’ve been thinking about the Underground Railroad today as I trace the path taken by so many slaves on their journey to freedom. Here I am riding a bicycle in broad daylight along well maintained roads running through welcoming communities and playing tag with pets. Escaped slaves had to travel at night, off the road, and at great risk of being caught by folks tracking them with bloodhounds. Big difference. It is hard to imagine how difficult this journey was for them. My friend George told me to listen for their stories in the wind. I’ll do just that.

Tonight I will be camping in Coffeeville, INSIDE the Dairy Bar. The folks here are very nice and the food is yummy. I pitched my tent behind the building, but now there is a bad storm coming this way, so they invited me to move all my stuff (including the bike) inside the building for the night. They will lock me in when they close at 9:00pm. They open at 4:00am, so I won’t be doing any sleeping in tomorrow.

If the storm blows through tonight, at least I can start out tomorrow with dry gear. People are so nice! There were a lot of big hills on the route today. I walked the bike a few times to give my hamstrings a break and save them for Tennessee and Kentucky. I will blog again later tonight about some of the Alabama history I have picked up along the way. Got to get my campsite set up now ...

Large versions of all my blog pics can be found at my photo gallery.

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In the Pour House

2009-04-08T20:39:00.006-05:00

I am sitting in Grove Hill's favorite local restaurant, Gloria's Pour House Cafe, the perfect finish to an excellent day of riding. Gloria has Wi-Fi and cell phone service here is good - yea! Got to keep the technology going. The weather today was perfect - sunny, cool, great scenery, and with only a moderate head wind - making for a good ride.

County Road 1 from Chrysler to Perdue Hill was a cyclist's dream - smooth pavement and virtually no traffic. The number of dogs that chased me more than compensated for the light traffic, but even that was no big deal. With the good riding conditions, I was able to outrun them all. It's all about getting past their "zone" of protection - they are just doing their job, after all, and once they feel like they have kept me from getting to their property they retreat to their favorite shady spot. I think that cyclists are a form of entertainment on an otherwise pretty quiet road.

The entire ride today was about 75 miles from Hubbard's Landing to Grove Hill. When I got here, I checked in at Town Hall and got permission to camp in City Park. The police said they would keep an eye on me (so stop worrying, Morgan!). When I finish blogging, I'm heading there to pitch my tent.

Tomorrow will be a moderate ride to Coffeeville. I picked that location to stop because there is an Army Corps of Engineering campground there on the Tombigbee River - they are always well maintained (with showers, which I won't have tonight). Listen to my report at 7:35 in the morning and I'll check back in tomorrow...

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Bay Minette, Falafel Capitol of the South

2009-04-08T05:14:00.007-05:00

Here is a picture of Zuhair Al-Azzeh, proprietor of Al’s Sandwich Shop in Bay Minette, with his crew. They treated me to the best falafel I have ever put in my mouth for lunch, followed by some very tasty baklava (and a supply for the road!). What a treat it was. Originally from Bethlehem, he opened this restaurant in March. If you are traveling through the area, try it out.

After a nice evening hanging out with the guys at the Atmore Fire Department and enjoying their hospitality, I headed for Stockton this morning. It was colder than yesterday, but the wind was somewhat calmer and the ride was pleasant with good roads all the way. I encountered some wildlife – egrets, wild turkey, and two dogs who thought they were wild. I let them get right to my heel before I blasted them with my air horn. It worked like a charm.

In my picture gallery, I have some shots of my campsite in Atmore and also the great place I’m staying tonight – a house on Tensaw Lake at Hubbard’s Landing, about six miles north of Stockton. This is complements of my friend Jim Brazil – thank you Jim! From the pictures you’ll see how high the water is right now. It feels like I’m staying on a really nice houseboat. It’ll be hard to leave in the morning, but this adventure is going so well I can’t wait to see what tomorrow brings. The number of people who are supporting this fund raiser for WUWF is growing daily – THANK YOU ALL! I’ll check back in tomorrow ...

Large versions of all my blog pics can be found at my photo gallery.

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On A Tire and A Prayer

2009-04-07T13:17:00.004-05:00

My tire changing experience yesterday got me thinking about prayer. I have had this discussion recently with someone very dear to me. Some people spend their whole lives in earnest prayer but are never quite sure that any of their prayers are really answered. Even Mother Teresa had her doubts. Not me. Maybe I’m just extremely blessed or because so many others are praying for my well being on this trip I somehow got in the express lane. Or maybe it’s because my prayers are generally very pragmatic and focused on something that needs resolution in a very short time frame, like when the pack of pit bulls came after me on my walk to Washington.

It’s much easier to gauge the effectiveness of prayer in a situation that needs immediate attention. Take yesterday for example. Now changing a tire may not rank up there with curing cancer or bringing about world peace, but to me it was more than just about the tire. After training for a year on one type of tire, I decided about a month ago to upgrade to a more rugged brand. My original tires were very easy to change, but more susceptible to flats. In fact, I probably changed ten of them during my training with no problem. The rigidity of the new tires makes them very had to get back on the rim after the tube is replaced. I discovered to my dismay when I had a flat the the day before I left that I was unable to get the tire back on without destroying the tube. After ruining three tubes, I went to the dealer and got some guidance as I watched him do it. Watching him did not really convince me that I could actually do it myself, and left me feeling a bit anxious about it. This is a big deal – if I can’t change a tire, I’m not going to get very far on this journey.

Now the big day of my departure comes and less than a mile from the Coffee Cup, my rear tire goes nearly flat. It’s a slow leak, I tell myself as I stop and pump some air into it. I’ll just keep an eye on it and change it later (ha!). After pumping it up every five miles, it final gives out just north of Molino. This is my moment of truth. As I get the tire off the rim and replace the tube, the praying begins in earnest. God, guide my hand as I put this tire back on the rim and protect this precious tube (I wonder if surgeon’s have similar prayers? Of course, not – they think they are God – just kidding). As I repeat this prayer over and over like a mantra, the tire slips onto the rim. After inflating the tube and hearing no escaping air, I give thanks for this blessing and reflect on how big a deal this is. The journey has just begun, but the prayer groups are working overtime. Thank you and bless you all! I’ll check back in tonight with my regular daily blog ...

Large versions of all my blog pics can be found at my photo gallery.

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What A Great Day!

2009-04-07T06:01:00.010-05:00

After a rousing sendoff from the Coffee Cup, it was a good first day, although not without its challenges. 5 ½ hours of riding against a 40mph head wind can really wear you out.

Oh, and there was the flat tire north of Molino. But that’s just part of the adventure, and what a grand adventure this is turning out to be!

My original plan was to get to Stockton, AL today, but the wind was too intense for me to make it all the way. I decided to stop in Atmore and find a place to camp for the night. My first stop was City Hall, where the mayor and his gracious staff offered to let me camp in front of the Atmore Fire Department. That’s where I am right now, hunkered down for the cold night ahead. The firemen have been most hospitable, providing me with a hot shower and a hot meal. Everyone in Atmore has been so nice – the magic I experienced on my hike is starting all over again. Even the publisher of the Atmore Advance hunted me down for an interview and let me go to his house and use his Wi-Fi. Once again, I am convinced that the American people are the kindest in the world.

Since I am joining the Underground Railroad in Stockton, I traveled to Mobile on Friday to check out the historic sites at the beginning of the route. First stop was the slave market at the corner of Royal and St. Louis streets. This was where the last cargo of slaves arrived on the schooner Clotilde in August of 1859. This was the last cargo of slaves to arrive in America.

My second stop was the Big Zion African Methodist Episcopal Zion Church. Its congregation originated in 1842. Its original structure was a wooden shed and parsonage, where was held the first ordination in Alabama of a Negro minister by a Negro Bishop. The present structure was constructed in 1867 and remodeled in 1896.

After a quick visit to the African American Archives, the last stop was Africa Town, a settlement of free slaves adjacent to downtown Mobile. In the cemetery, you can find the grave of Cudjoe “Kazoola” Lewis, one of the 115 slaves aboard the Clotilde. Lewis lived to the ripe old age of 114.

You can see pictures of these sites in my photo gallery. Oh well, time to call it a night. Tomorrow I head to Stockton, hopefully with less wind. Stay tuned to 88.1FM for my reports at 7:30am and 4:30pm every weekday. Thank you for your encouragement, prayers, well wishes, and contributions to this important station fundraising event!

Large versions of all my blog pics can be found at my photo gallery.

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Weight Weight ... Don't Tail Me

2009-03-17T13:33:00.009-05:00

Okay, I’m not carrying that much. I did make the hundred-mile round trip to Atmore this weekend with my bike fully loaded. It was a pretty good ride. The Trek 520 handles the extra weight well enough; although with two sets of panniers and a strong headwind on the return leg of the trip, there were times

when I felt like I was piloting a box kite. I’m going to keep riding with the full load from now on as my departure date of April 6 approaches.

My plan is to camp as much as possible on this journey or at least avoid staying in motels. I will be relying on the kindness of strangers as well as the not so strange for assistance as I make my way north. I invite you to check out the route map and if you have family or friends along the way who might be willing to offer yard space for my tent and maybe even a shower, I would really appreciate hearing from you. You can drop me a line at pat@wuwf.org.

Last week I met Brice Nelson, a fellow cyclist from Iowa who was travelling through our area on his way around the world. He has set aside $10,000 and the next ten years of his life to accomplish this. Accordingly, he has a budget of $3.00 a day. He has already traveled over 2,000 miles and is doing a pretty good job of staying within budget. Needless to say, he is very good at the fine art of talking his way into food and accommodations. I’m taking notes.

Thanks for all the great comments and encouragement. I’ve enjoyed the discussion about dogs and appreciate the good advice. I’m hoping I won’t have to use any of it, but I feel well prepared nonetheless. Stay tuned for more updates …

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Man's Best Friend

2009-03-10T15:29:00.006-05:00

Sorry for the lapse in blogging – I have been busy with last minute training, packing, and logistics. I read a great article in Adventure Cyclist magazine this month about dog encounters. Although my choice would be to not entertain such thoughts, the reality is that I will no doubt have some interaction with curious canines along my route. I am a dog lover and my non-threatening demeanor when walking usually evokes nothing more than casual curiosity from the dogs I encounter (with the exception of the Georgia pit bulls I met on my walk to Washington in 2007). But put me on a bicycle and suddenly I become a bane to their existence, or so it must seem to them. I have observed on my rides around town that even dogs who know me can’t resist the urge to make chase.

On this trip, I will be riding mostly on small county roads through very rural areas. The odds of encounters are greater, given the tendency for dogs in these areas to roam freely. More than one source has indicated that Kentucky is particularly well known for its “free range” canines. I will be packing a canister of HALT, a popular puppy deterrent. I’m not crazy about using it, however, as I don’t like the idea of spraying something in any creature’s face.

The article I read mentioned using a 120 decibel air horn (like those used by boaters) as a first line of defense and that the horn used by the author was rechargeable.
I found the EcoBlast online and it is way cool. Note the valve on the bottom of the can – I can recharge the horn using my bicycle pump – an endless supply of blast power! I’m hoping that the horn will convince my doggie friends to leave me alone and I won’t have to use the spray. I can also use the horn in heavy traffic to level the playing field with the 18-wheelers.

With less than one month until my departure, I am really anxious to hit the road. I guess I should be savoring my final days of cushy bedding and regular showers!

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Wheel of Fortune

2009-02-23T12:07:00.010-06:00

All of this discussion about equipment and training is great, but I don't want to lose sight of the main reason I'm making this trek to Canada - to raise much needed money to support your favorite programs on WUWF. Contributions from listeners like you account for nearly half the annual operating budget of the station and more importantly, nearly all of the acquisition costs of the programs from National Public Radio, Public Radio International, American Public Media, and others.

I am making this trip because I love public radio, and not just because I have been blessed to have been able to be a part of it since the beginnings of NPR in the early 70s. I am not being paid to do this (it's on my own time) and I am covering all of my expenses (food, equipment, lodging - that's why I plan to mostly camp), so 100% of your contribution goes directly to support those programs you enjoy every day.

I am asking you to support this adventure now. Click on the link Sponsor Pat's Adventure and make your pledge online or call us at (850)474-2787. This is a critical year for your public radio station. We're counting on you. While you're at it, call or drop a line to the corporate sponsors whose logos appear in the column to the right and tell them how much you appreciate their support of your station. Together we can keep this great national treasure alive and well. It doesn’t take a genius to figure that out.

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The Bike

2009-02-18T11:27:00.012-06:00

After a great deal of research, I chose the Trek 520 for this adventure. It is a pretty basic Road bike, certainly not the most expensive or the sexiest. What sold me on it was the description of it as “the only choice for an unsupported
transcontinental tour through a third world country”. I figured that would do the trick. Having now logged about 2,000 miles on it, I am convinced that it is indeed the best choice. The only thing I have changed is the seat (see my previous blog entry) – all the other components seem to do exactly what they were designed to do. The more I ride, the more I appreciate its dependability. If I could find indestructible tires, I would really be ecstatic.

Here it is fully loaded with a complete set of Arkel panniers. These Canadian bags are virtually indestructible and offer plenty of space for stashing all the gear and other “stuff” that I will need for the trip. I am traveling “unsupported”, which means exactly that – no one following along in a van – everything I need I have to carry myself.

Just like I did on my walk to Washington, I have no real game plan other than to keep moving and see where I end up at the end of each day. The route this time is much more rural and the terrain definitely more challenging. The mountains of Kentucky and Tennessee should provide more than enough hill climbing experiences!

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Let's Talk Saddles

2009-02-11T16:23:00.012-06:00

This is the Selle Italia Flite, recommended to me by a well seasoned cyclist. It was my third attempt at finding the perfect fit and I think this one is it. I have logged more than 1500 miles on it. I can’t say that I’m pain free after a 100+ mile ride, but it is pretty close. I know it looks awfully thin and not particularly cushy, but that is what makes it work so well. To the uninitiated (which I definitely was a year ago), a nice cushy wide seat seemed like a logical choice for comfort. NO WAY.

All that cushioning and width will rub you raw! You want as little of you to come in contact with the saddle as possible – just your “sit bones” and that’s it. Also, I learned to move around a lot while riding and to stay off the saddle as much as possible. Standing on the pedals when taking off from dead stops and climbing elevations saves your booty a lot of wear and tear. Okay, you’ve probably learned more than you wanted to know. Just thought I would share some of the things I’ve learned while getting ready for the trek.

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Double Bridge Run

2009-02-09T11:44:00.019-06:00

Saturday was a great day for the Double Bridge 15K Run – perfect weather and good friends to run with. Thanks to Bob Turner and Wade Peters who set a good pace, I did better than when I ran it in 2007. It was a lot warmer this time around too. Although I tied Bob for second place in the octogenarian category, I don’t think I was even on the radar in my own age division. All in all it was a great day and a nice break from all the cycling I’ve been doing.

This week I need to get back on the bike, but I’m going to take it easy the latter part of the week to rest up for the Pensacola Half Marathon on Sunday.

I have been studying my maps in preparation. Honestly, not getting lost on this trip will be my greatest challenge. I have virtually no sense of direction and this route is vastly more complex than the one I took when I walked to DC. At least I will have a GPS device with me this time around to provide some guidance. Oh well, it just makes the journey more of an adventure when you really don’t know where you are going. It is nearly impossible for me to predict how far I will ride each day – I know how well I can do on a good day on relatively flat terrain, but the mountains of Tennessee and Kentucky are truly wild cards – I won’t get a feel for the daily mileage there until I actually do it. I still feel like 60 days is a reasonable time frame to complete the whole trek – we’ll see!

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59 Days and Counting

2009-02-05T12:28:00.013-06:00

Today seems like a good time to begin my Bike Blog in anticipation of my departure from Pensacola on Monday, April 6. I have been training really hard for this adventure, hitting the gym three times a week to build up my strength and endurance and riding my bike as often and as far as possible. With the shorter winter days, I haven’t been able to get many rides in during the week, but I am taking at least one 100-mile ride each weekend.

This past Saturday, the weather was perfect for a ride to Atmore. There was a bit of a head wind heading out, but the tail wind coming back cut my time in half. I was able to complete the 101 mile round trip in 6 ½ hours. I am convinced that I have finally found the perfect saddle for me (a Selle Italia Flite). Even after these long rides, I am not terribly uncomfortable and by the next day I am ready to ride again.

As a part of my training I am running the Double Bridge Run this weekend, the Pensacola Half Marathon next weekend, and the Seaside Half Marathon on March 1. All this training in advance will hopefully pay off on the trek to Canada – I want to be able to enjoy the ride without worrying about aches and pains.

You will notice that this is a true blog, with a comments section for you to post your own thoughts about this adventure. Between now and April 6, I will be posting a few times a week. During the actual trek, I will be posting daily commentaries as well as regularly uploading photos of the places I will be visiting. I have a smart phone and a solar charger for it, so communicating should be a breeze.

Remember that this adventure is another experiment in extreme fundraising. We hope to duplicate the success of Walking the Blue Highways. You can make that happen by pledging on line. I am using my own time and resources to cover all of the expenses of the trip, so 100% of your contribution will go toward supporting your favorite programs on WUWF. Thanks in advance for your support.

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