Freedom on Liberty Hill

This is the commanding view of the Ohio River from the home of Presbyterian Minister John Rankin, high above the historic town of Ripley, Ohio. On a clear day (which this wasn’t), you can see seven bends in the river as it marks the border between Kentucky and Ohio. Reverend Rankin and his large family were among the most notable abolitionists in the area, providing shelter to an estimated 2,000 freedom seekers. Their house could be identified at night from the river by a candle glowing in its window.



Here is a view of the house, restored to its original appearance during the heyday of the Underground Railroad in the decade leading up to the Civil War.



To the right of the entrance is a root cellar where runaway slaves were hidden until it was safe for them to move along the ridge above town to the Red Oak Presbyterian Church, the next stop on their journey to freedom (more on that later).



Here is the view from the top of the “stairway to liberty” supposedly used by the freedom seekers to reach the Rankin’s home from Ripley after crossing the river.

The stairs have been restored, but here is an historic picture of the original stairs – quite a climb!

The author Harriet Beecher Stowe was a frequent guest at the Rankin home and it is said that the character Eliza in her novel Uncle Tom’s Cabin was based on an actual runaway slave who made three daring trips across the frozen river to rescue her husband, infant, and seven other children.



The Red Oak Presbyterian Church and Cemetery was the second stop near Ripley for escaped slaves on the run.



Although it was a significant part of the Underground Railroad, the cemetery is better known by tourists as the final resting place for the iconic Aunt Jemima.


(Rosa Washington Riles was born in Red Oak, Ohio. She was recruited to travel around the country playing Aunt Jemima, beginning in the mid-1930s in stage shows, film, on the radio and eventually TV.)



Before leaving Kentucky this morning I visited a few sites worth noting. The Paxton Inn in Old Washington was built around 1810 by James A. Paxton, a local attorney and abolitionist.



It was said to be a safe house for escaping slaves, who were believed to have hidden on a narrow staircase next to the kitchen fireplace until they could be safely moved across the river to Ohio.


Also in Old Washington is the Harriet Beecher Stowe Slavery to Freedom Museum. This building was the home of Marshall Key, who was visited by Stowe during the summer of 1833. While there, she attended a local slave auction on the adjacent courthouse lawn.


That scene was later incorporated in her famous novel.


As I passed through downtown Maysville, I visited the Bierbower House, another documented safe house built in the 1840s. The Underground Railroad experience is becoming so much more tangible to me now as I encounter more of these actual sites.


In tomorrow’s blog I will feature the Ripley home of ex-slave, abolitionist and inventor John P. Parker.



Before I wrap this up, I want you to appreciate the effort I have made to be chased by a bear in order to up the ante on pledges. Although I couldn’t get him to chase me, he did try to swat me!



He was one of a pair of bears living in the back yard of one of Ripley’s more colorful characters. I am no longer surprised by anything I see on this journey.





I really want to thank Sonja Cropper, who spent the day showing me around Ripley. As the county’s economic development and tourism guru, she is doing a great job promoting this area’s important contributions to the Underground Railroad.


Time to call it a night. Check back with me tomorrow when I will hopefully be in Cincinnati. Take care!

Large versions of all my blog pics can be found at my photo gallery

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Mood Indigo

Okay, this is the punch line to a really lame joke my father used to tell me. Unless you are even older than me or a Duke Ellington fan, it will be lost on you (as it was on me for years). It goes like this: “What happened to the cow that ate the bluegrass? He Mood Indigo.”

I told you it was lame. Anyway, when I passed this herd on my route today I suddenly remembered it from my childhood and felt the need to share it with you.

I really did see some beautiful bluegrass as I navigated the rolling hills from Dry Ridge to Maysville (about 70 miles). I am spending my last night in Kentucky here in Maysville, and in the morning I am going to explore the great Underground Railroad sites both here and in Old Washington before crossing the Ohio River into Ohio.

There I will be visiting the town of Ripley, another significant player in the anti-slavery movement. I will have much to blog about tomorrow, as these sites are well documented. The Ohio River Valley is proud of its role in the freedom trail and has done an excellent job of documenting and preserving this important part of our history.

I passed near Augusta today, where the only two Kentucky sites listed as members of the Park Service’s National Underground Railroad Network to Freedom Program are located. One is the farm of John Gregg Fee, Kentucky’s most outspoken abolitionist and founder of Berea College. The other is White Hall, the home of abolitionists and Underground Railroad conductors Arthur Thome and his son James. Unfortunately, neither site is open to the public.

The weather last night in Dry Ridge was anything but dry. The nice folks at the I-75 Campground were kind enough to let me put my tent, bike and gear on the screen porch of a vacant cabin, so I didn’t get blown away by the storm. The folks at Cracker Barrel were also great –

very interested in what I was doing – and even gave me my dinner on the house! I continue to be delighted (but not surprised) at the kindness extended to me by everyone I meet on this journey. God bless ‘em all!

Since this is my last night in Kentucky, it is time to set the record straight about loose dogs, When I was researching this trip, the word was that Kentucky had the worst reputation for dog encounters with cyclists. I’m here to tell you it just isn’t true. In fact, Kentucky dogs are the best. They are either fenced, tied up, or exceedingly well-behaved. I was only chased once today, and even then the pup conducted himself in a most respectful manner in regards to rules of engagement. From my experience thus far, Mississippi takes the prize for most loose and ill-mannered canines per mile.

In spite of my numerous encounters with dogs since leaving Pensacola, I have not had to use pepper spray even once. My trusty EcoBlast rechargeable air horn has stopped all but one dog in its tracks (and he just wanted to “tag” me for sport). I heartily endorse the EcoBlast as the humane and environmentally-friendly way (you just use your bike pump to refill it) to handle those overzealous canines who want to mix it up with you. As you can see from the picture, I keep mine in the water bottle holder directly behind my seat. I think of it as my “holster” and have become quite adept at quickly drawing my weapon while pedaling furiously (I only use it if I can’t outrun the dog).

Time to call it a night – I am looking forward to rolling into Ohio in the morning. Keep those comments and contributions to the cause coming in, and check back tomorrow night for the latest blog update. Peace be with you!

Large versions of all my blog pics can be found at my photo gallery

What Do You Think?

As always we want your thoughts, opinions and feedback. Please use the links below to make a comment or suggestion and to see what others are saying about this subject.

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To have your say, just choose the 'name/url' option and enter a screen name (you can leave the url field blank) or choose the 'anonymous' option on the comment screen.

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