Inn of Legends

On the south bank at the confluence of the Cumberland and Ohio Rivers in Smithland, Kentucky stands the shell of The Gower House, once a grand meeting place for some of the most influential figures in American history. Among the famous that are reported to have slept at the Inn are: Abraham Lincoln, Andrew Jackson, Aaron Burr, John James Audubon, and Benedict Arnold. Ulysses S. Grant and his troops are said to have drank from the mineral well in the courtyard. Local folk lore reports that President Zachary Taylor was informed of his election to the Presidency while staying at the Inn.

Henry Clay is rumored to have held court under the old elm tree that was in front of the Inn. Dubbed "Judge Elm", it is reputed to have been the site of the first hanging in Western Kentucky. The tree no longer exits, having been struck by lightning some years ago. A very ingenious person took the remains and carved a statue of Clay. The wooden likeness was housed in a veranda next to The Gower House, however it has since disintegrated.

Built between 1820 and 1825, the Gower House was a 35 to 40 room inn for weary travelers. The architecture is described as Georgian or Early Federal, similar to that of colonial New England homes, taverns, and hotels. All the wall structures are 16 inches in depth and solid brick. The foundation is formed of limestone rock, some measuring as large as three by six feet.

It was constructed in a U shape with verandas overlooking the center courtyard. A mineral well was situated in the center of this area. A fire in 1857 destroyed half the building, leaving the present L shaped structure. A Methodist Minister's conference was being held at the time and it is said that they formed a bucket brigade to the river to extinguish the fire.

The Gower House does have an interesting connection to the Underground Railroad. Legend has it that slaves used an underground tunnel connecting the Massey House, located a few blocks away, to The Gower House.

From there, the runaway slaves were loaded onto boats and escaped across the river to Illinois and freedom. The Massey House is purported to have a hidden opening in a closet floor. Descendants of Massey have spoken about a trap door in the floor of a closet that could only be opened from the inside. Leslie McDonald, in his book "Echoes of Yesteryear", states that there is evidence of a tunnel there. Could this be the tunnel used to help the slaves escape imprisonment? No one can be sure as the current owners of the Massey House are reportedly unwilling to let visitors explore their closets and as you can see the house is in ruins and about to be overwhelmed by nature. Presently the Gower House itself sits gutted and unused. The hand-hewn mantles and floors have long since been discarded and lost to time. What a shame that these two historic structures are being lost, particularly if the connection to the Underground Railroad might be proven with a little research and investigation.


While visiting The Gower House was one of the highlights of my ride today, traveling by ferry across the Ohio River was great fun as well. It’s just a short hop across the river into Illinois and the village of Cave In Rock.



Here’s a shot of the state park where I’m camping tonight taken from the ferry. And one from the park looking out over the Ohio River toward Kentucky.



I spent about two hours visiting with some locals and enjoying a great meal at GeeJay’s Café (thanks for the tip, Josh).

Then I pitched my tent on a nice high point above the river and settled in for the night.

Note the extensive damage to the trees in the background as a result of the winter ice storm earlier this year.

Oh well, time for sleep – got to hit the road early tomorrow for a long ride. Check back tomorrow ...

Large versions of all my blog pics can be found at my photo gallery.

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