Not the prettiest weather, but it’s great to be back on the road today. After a restful break in New Albany, it felt really good to be back in the saddle. It was a wonderful stay with Bob and Serena Weiss – they win the most hospitable people in the universe award for their kindness and generosity – royal treatment and even the use of their sporty car to peruse Louisville. Amidst the wining and dining, I had my first piece of Derby Pie (okay, two pieces). It is Derby Week after all. They invited me to stay as long as I wanted, and believe me it was tempting.
It was a very special time and a visit I won’t forget (but I was taking a break, so I’m not giving any more details). The folks at Jeffersonville Schwinn & Sport did an awesome tune-up on my bike, and that combined with a great tailwind today enabled me to average 16 mph and make quick work of the 57 miles to Madison, Indiana. That’s where I am tonight; hiding from the rain in a motel overlooking the bridge I will take in the morning back into Kentucky for the next few days.
The back roads I am taking follow the banks of the Ohio River very closely, so it really gives me a feel for what the freedom seekers on the Underground Railroad must have experienced. Of course, have many bridges to choose from to cross back and forth between Indiana and Kentucky. None of these bridges existed until after the Civil War, so slaves escaping through Kentucky could only get to Indiana by boat, on foot (if the river was frozen), or by swimming (which was nearly impossible in the swift current). The problem was further complicated by the fact that those who did cross successfully were just as likely to be greeted on the Indiana shore by bounty hunters as by sympathizers.
The Second Presbyterian Church in New Albany, Indiana was a safe haven for freedom seekers. Members of this congregation were openly supportive of the Underground Railroad and actively served as conductors, sheltering runaway slaves and assisting them in moving further North. There are small openings and rooms in the dirt basement of the church that remain today just as they were when used to shelter fugitive slaves. New Albany and Southeastern Indiana has a rich history with the Underground Railroad which is well documented in an exhibit at the Carnegie Center for Art & History in downtown New Albany.
Here are some of the slave artifacts from the exhibit – chains used to restrain movement and deter escape and actual documents pertaining to the sale of a slave. As I continue to move north, the number of documented sites and stories will increase. Here is where organized groups of people like the Quakers and Presbyterians took an active role in shepherding them to freedom.
The scenery in Indiana is beautiful. Today as I approached Madison, I rode through Clifty Falls State Park – parts of it were breathtaking. Once again, I appreciate being able to follow the back roads and enjoy the people and places that you seldom see when traveling by car. I know this because I seldom see any cars. Oh, by the way, add one more dog to the chase total for today.
I need to call it a night. I plan to do some exploring here in Madison tomorrow before heading across the river. There are several interesting historical sites I’ll be blogging about tomorrow. Check back with me then...
Large versions of all my blog pics can be found at my photo gallery.
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Thursday, April 30, 2009
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2 comments:
hi pat! that last post was awesome. i actually stumbled on your blog while surfing for bike touring blogs, and it's really great. keep it up :) i am new at this, but i hope to one day be able to go touring as well with a bike. currently i am bikeless but hopefully that will change soon.
cheers.
oh and, where are you from? and where do you want to get to? i assume you are still touring? i went back a few pages, and you are in kentucky correct? sorry, i am no from the u.s, so my geographical knowledge of the area is sub-par.
cheers.
p.s - you take really great pictures :D
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