On the Road Again

Not the prettiest weather, but it’s great to be back on the road today. After a restful break in New Albany, it felt really good to be back in the saddle. It was a wonderful stay with Bob and Serena Weiss – they win the most hospitable people in the universe award for their kindness and generosity – royal treatment and even the use of their sporty car to peruse Louisville. Amidst the wining and dining, I had my first piece of Derby Pie (okay, two pieces). It is Derby Week after all. They invited me to stay as long as I wanted, and believe me it was tempting.

It was a very special time and a visit I won’t forget (but I was taking a break, so I’m not giving any more details). The folks at Jeffersonville Schwinn & Sport did an awesome tune-up on my bike, and that combined with a great tailwind today enabled me to average 16 mph and make quick work of the 57 miles to Madison, Indiana. That’s where I am tonight; hiding from the rain in a motel overlooking the bridge I will take in the morning back into Kentucky for the next few days.

The back roads I am taking follow the banks of the Ohio River very closely, so it really gives me a feel for what the freedom seekers on the Underground Railroad must have experienced. Of course, have many bridges to choose from to cross back and forth between Indiana and Kentucky. None of these bridges existed until after the Civil War, so slaves escaping through Kentucky could only get to Indiana by boat, on foot (if the river was frozen), or by swimming (which was nearly impossible in the swift current). The problem was further complicated by the fact that those who did cross successfully were just as likely to be greeted on the Indiana shore by bounty hunters as by sympathizers.

The Second Presbyterian Church in New Albany, Indiana was a safe haven for freedom seekers. Members of this congregation were openly supportive of the Underground Railroad and actively served as conductors, sheltering runaway slaves and assisting them in moving further North. There are small openings and rooms in the dirt basement of the church that remain today just as they were when used to shelter fugitive slaves. New Albany and Southeastern Indiana has a rich history with the Underground Railroad which is well documented in an exhibit at the Carnegie Center for Art & History in downtown New Albany.

















Here are some of the slave artifacts from the exhibit – chains used to restrain movement and deter escape and actual documents pertaining to the sale of a slave. As I continue to move north, the number of documented sites and stories will increase. Here is where organized groups of people like the Quakers and Presbyterians took an active role in shepherding them to freedom.

The scenery in Indiana is beautiful. Today as I approached Madison, I rode through Clifty Falls State Park – parts of it were breathtaking. Once again, I appreciate being able to follow the back roads and enjoy the people and places that you seldom see when traveling by car. I know this because I seldom see any cars. Oh, by the way, add one more dog to the chase total for today.

I need to call it a night. I plan to do some exploring here in Madison tomorrow before heading across the river. There are several interesting historical sites I’ll be blogging about tomorrow. Check back with me then...

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Through the Back Door

After a restful night camping beside Holy Trinity Episcopal Church in Brandenburg, I enjoyed a big breakfast at Perna’s Place (I didn’t really have to use the back door) before sharing Eucharist with the congregation. What a delightful group of fellow Episcopalians!



After leaving Brandenburg, it was a short hop across the Ohio River into Indiana for a pleasant afternoon ride through the rolling hills leading to New Albany, where I ended my day’s journey.

For those of you who worry about my safety riding in traffic, here’s a picture I took today as I was leaving Corydon, Indiana. This is typical of the kind of back roads I have been travelling on this trip. The Adventure Cycling Association folks who map these routes go to great lengths to avoid the main roads and as a result, I get to enjoy a safe, scenic and tranquil ride. There is the occasional loose dog, but since we established the dollar-a-dog pledge level they have all but abandoned me. For those keeping track, I have only been chased four times since Thursday.

I had lunch today at Magdalena’s Café in downtown Corydon, right across the street from the Capitol Building. The capital of Indiana Territory was moved to Corydon from Vincennes in 1813 and this building became the first State Capitol in 1816, before the capital was moved to Indianapolis in 1825.

You know you are in Indiana when you start to see these signs. White Castle is somewhat of a sacred tradition for folks living in this part of the country. I’m not a big fan of “sliders” myself, but I do appreciate their significance as a Midwestern cultural icon.


As I mentioned earlier, I made it to New Albany today, which is located directly across the river from Louisville, Kentucky. It’s Derby Week, although I won’t be staying around for the big race. I have the good fortune of being hosted by Bob and Serena Weiss, who live just outside of New Albany.

Serena is the sister of WUWF’s own Joe Vincenza, and she and Bob are most gracious to allow me the opportunity to take a break from the road. Since I have ridden for three weeks without a break, I am going to take my bike to the local bike shop for some minor repairs in the morning and then after my morning and afternoon reports on air, I am going off-road and off-line for a couple of days. Don’t worry about me and don’t expect another report or blog entry until Thursday when I am back on the road.

Thank you for following along and special thanks to those of you who have contributed to this extreme fundraising campaign. If you haven’t made your contribution, you can do it right here online. Together we are enjoying a great adventure and supporting a great cause – the programs you love on public radio.

Louisville is approximately half way to my final destination in Ontario, as I have logged close to 1100 miles. Take care and check back on Thursday as the journey continues.

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Hooking Up in Brandenburg

... to the internet, that is.

After a breakdown in communications while camping in the wild last night, it was more than a pleasant surprise while rolling along the waterfront in Brandenburg, KY to stumble upon the Main Street Café.

It's an Internet café in a restored historic property overlooking the Ohio River.




This place is a blogger’s dream come true - great food and connectivity! If you come anywhere near Brandenburg, a visit to the Main Street Café is a must.




Here is a picture of my communications equipment that I use when there is no connectivity. I prepare my blog and pictures on my Netbook, transfer the files to my smart phone, and use the phone to send the blog to WUWF’s Internet guru John Macdonell. This has worked perfectly the entire trip until last night.

Apparently I was in an area where competing service providers don’t play nice, so I was shut out by one of Verizon’s competitors. By tomorrow I should be in a friendlier cell zone again.

Passing this buggy warning sign today reminded me of growing up in the Shenandoah Valley of Virginia with its Mennonite population. Apparently this area has quite a few Mennonite, Amish, and Quaker families. All of these folks played a significant role in the

Underground Railroad, shepherding runaway slaves across the river to freedom.

Thanks to the efforts of David Reed, retired Bishop of Kentucky, I am camping tonight next to Holy Trinity Episcopal Church here in Brandenburg. I will be up early in the morning to pack up the bike and look forward to attending the service before heading out towards New Albany, Indiana. Tomorrow will be my first foray into the Hoosier State on this trip. Oh well, time for me to wrap this up and set up camp for the night. Check back with me tomorrow.

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The Hundred Acre Wood

(Blog entry delayed due to technical problems.)This picture doesn’t even come close to capturing the beauty and tranquility of the spot where I’m camping tonight in Vastwood Park, a county park located about 2 miles north of Hawesville, KY. It is clear but breezy with the temperature around 78 degrees. Today’s ride was relatively short (39 miles) and easy – I arrived in Hawesville around lunch time and had the vegetable plate at Irby’s Restaurant on Main Street before heading to the campground.

You can see the bridge crossing the Ohio River to Indiana in the background. The roads I am riding are closely following the Ohio River as it twists and turns, outlining the Western border of Kentucky. I have actually been riding more East than North the past few days. The Underground Railroad Route follows the rivers,

so it is by no means a straight shot North. If you check out the satellite image map, you will see that I am beginning my Eastern arc to align myself with Ohio and ultimately Niagara where I will cross over into Canada. The mileage from Pensacola to Ontario would be much less on a more deliberate Northern route, but that’s not the point of this journey.

I am meeting a lot of nice folks here at Vastwood. It is a popular camping place for the locals on the weekends, and it is the weekend after all (although I tend to lose track of the days on the road). I need to get to bed early tonight and get an early start in the morning – it’s about 60 miles to Brandenburg, tomorrow’s destination.

Your comments continue to keep me amused and motivated. As to the question today about supplements, I take only Glucosamine for my knees and I drink a soy protein shake that I mix with milk every day to give me the vitamins and minerals I need. An occasional sweet tea or Coke gives me my caffeine kick when I need it. Otherwise, the excitement of the trip itself keeps me fired up and ready to ride every day.

I will continue to blog through the weekend, so don’t forget to check back tomorrow. Thanks for following – catch you later!

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Roadside Pleasures

One of the pleasures of a slow ride on the back roads of America is the discovery of great little meeting and eating places. Del’s Place in Stanley, Kentucky is one such place. When you walk in the door, you know the patrons are all locals, all friends and family, and all ready to welcome you into the fold.

Listening to their views on politics, religion, or whatever is on their minds is fascinating. Spend a few weeks with folks like these and you will really develop a sense of the American spirit and guess what - it’s nothing like the pundits, politicos, and other wackos who dominate the mainstream media would have you believe.

Here’s a shot of the Glover Cary Bridge spanning the Ohio River on the Kentucky urban camping at a Budget Inn downtown. As a border slave state, Kentucky played a major role in the Underground Railroad. Sympathizers helped runaway slaves get across the Ohio River into the free states beyond.

On the other hand, it also played a major role in the marketing and transportation of slaves to Louisiana and elsewhere in the Deep South. In fact, the expression “sold down the river” originated in Kentucky.

I’m still feeling great and making good progress. Your comments and encouragement are most appreciated, as are your contributions in support of public radio. I am thoroughly enjoying every aspect of this adventure, but let’s not forget that the main reason I am doing this is to raise money to pay for the programs you enjoy on WUWF. And EVERY PENNY raised is going directly to that cause – I am covering all of my expenses (food, equipment, supplies, lodging) with my own money.

Tomorrow I continue to follow the winding roads along both sides of the Ohio River, weaving in and out of Kentucky and Indiana over the next few days. Keep tuning into WUWF for my morning (7:35am) and afternoon (4:30pm) reports from the road, and check back here tomorrow for my next blog. Thanks for coming along!

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ObamaNation

Time for a new slogan for Illinois? Maybe. I spent the first half of today riding north along the west bank of the Ohio River in Southern Illinois, crossing back over in Kentucky near Shawnee Town. Although it was a bit chilly starting out, it soon warmed up and the weather was perfect for a long day of hill climbing in both states. I rode within 75 miles of Carbondale, where I had my first real public radio job at Southern Illinois University in 1979. One of my mentors, a genuine old time radio guy, said if I didn’t start smoking and drinking coffee I would never make it in the business. I guess I proved him wrong on both counts.

Before bidding farewell to Cave In Rock, I enjoyed a great breakfast and more conversation at GeeJay’s Café. The folks there are especially nice. I took this picture of the Opry House across the street before I left. Oh – before I forget – for those of you keeping track of the dog chases, yesterday there were lots of yard runners but only one chase. Today there were four. Here’s a picture of a sweet dog from my stay in Gainesville, Alabama on Easter.



His name is Buddy and he kept watch over me. Actually, he wanted to get in the tent. He was fine until I would get on my bike and then he would bark at me like all the other dogs.




One other piece of business from my visit yesterday to The Gower House. This is the flip side of the historic marker in front of the house. I tell you, Smithland was one popular place.

I don’t think George Washington ever slept there, but everyone else did.

It’s going to be cold here in the morning where I’m camping in Henderson, KY. I’ll probably have to shove the hand dryer in the bath house up under my jacket to get warm like I did this morning at the campground in Cave In Rock. Right now I have to sneak over to the parking lot of the Comfort Inn down the road to see if I can jump on their Wi-Fi and send this blog. You have to be resourceful out here on the road.

Tomorrow I’m heading for Owensboro. Catch you later ...

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Inn of Legends

On the south bank at the confluence of the Cumberland and Ohio Rivers in Smithland, Kentucky stands the shell of The Gower House, once a grand meeting place for some of the most influential figures in American history. Among the famous that are reported to have slept at the Inn are: Abraham Lincoln, Andrew Jackson, Aaron Burr, John James Audubon, and Benedict Arnold. Ulysses S. Grant and his troops are said to have drank from the mineral well in the courtyard. Local folk lore reports that President Zachary Taylor was informed of his election to the Presidency while staying at the Inn.

Henry Clay is rumored to have held court under the old elm tree that was in front of the Inn. Dubbed "Judge Elm", it is reputed to have been the site of the first hanging in Western Kentucky. The tree no longer exits, having been struck by lightning some years ago. A very ingenious person took the remains and carved a statue of Clay. The wooden likeness was housed in a veranda next to The Gower House, however it has since disintegrated.

Built between 1820 and 1825, the Gower House was a 35 to 40 room inn for weary travelers. The architecture is described as Georgian or Early Federal, similar to that of colonial New England homes, taverns, and hotels. All the wall structures are 16 inches in depth and solid brick. The foundation is formed of limestone rock, some measuring as large as three by six feet.

It was constructed in a U shape with verandas overlooking the center courtyard. A mineral well was situated in the center of this area. A fire in 1857 destroyed half the building, leaving the present L shaped structure. A Methodist Minister's conference was being held at the time and it is said that they formed a bucket brigade to the river to extinguish the fire.

The Gower House does have an interesting connection to the Underground Railroad. Legend has it that slaves used an underground tunnel connecting the Massey House, located a few blocks away, to The Gower House.

From there, the runaway slaves were loaded onto boats and escaped across the river to Illinois and freedom. The Massey House is purported to have a hidden opening in a closet floor. Descendants of Massey have spoken about a trap door in the floor of a closet that could only be opened from the inside. Leslie McDonald, in his book "Echoes of Yesteryear", states that there is evidence of a tunnel there. Could this be the tunnel used to help the slaves escape imprisonment? No one can be sure as the current owners of the Massey House are reportedly unwilling to let visitors explore their closets and as you can see the house is in ruins and about to be overwhelmed by nature. Presently the Gower House itself sits gutted and unused. The hand-hewn mantles and floors have long since been discarded and lost to time. What a shame that these two historic structures are being lost, particularly if the connection to the Underground Railroad might be proven with a little research and investigation.


While visiting The Gower House was one of the highlights of my ride today, traveling by ferry across the Ohio River was great fun as well. It’s just a short hop across the river into Illinois and the village of Cave In Rock.



Here’s a shot of the state park where I’m camping tonight taken from the ferry. And one from the park looking out over the Ohio River toward Kentucky.



I spent about two hours visiting with some locals and enjoying a great meal at GeeJay’s Café (thanks for the tip, Josh).

Then I pitched my tent on a nice high point above the river and settled in for the night.

Note the extensive damage to the trees in the background as a result of the winter ice storm earlier this year.

Oh well, time for sleep – got to hit the road early tomorrow for a long ride. Check back tomorrow ...

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Prairie Home Companions

When I started out from Dover this morning, it looked like it was going to be another rainy day. After a couple of hours of riding a strong headwind out of the north really slowed me down, but it did blow the rain clouds to the south and afforded me a beautiful blue sky.

This lasted until mid afternoon when the wind pushed in another storm front and gave me a brief but soaking shower. Since then it has been raining off and on and the temperature has dropped considerably.

Most of my ride today was through the Land Between the Lakes National Recreation Area (or “LBL” as the locals call it), a beautiful nature and wildlife preserve that runs between Kentucky Lake (fed by the Tennessee River) and Lake Barkley (fed by the Cumberland River). This herd of American Bison was grazing in the Elk & Bison Prairie, a 700-acre restoration of Kentucky’s native barrens as they existed during the time when this area was populated by Native Americans. The Bison did not chase me. In fact, nothing chased me today. I guess a nature preserve is a pretty safe place to ride.

This is the remains of the Great Western Furnace. Built in 1854 by Brian, Newall & Company, this steam cold-blast charcoal furnace was built of limestone from the surrounding hills. Brown iron-ore came from shallow deposits nearby.

The pig-iron produced by this furnace was shipped by river or hauled to rolling mills to the east. It closed after only two years, due to a lack of sufficient ore, a slave insurrection by the furnace crew, and the fact that the owners had overextended themselves with other investments. I guess they didn’t qualify for the economic stimulus package of 1856.

Tonight I am staying in Grand Rivers, Kentucky, the village between the lakes, a couple of miles north of LBL. For those of you who are keeping track of the good eating places, Patti’s 1880’s Settlement & Restaurant is a must. They are known for their world famous pork chops and amazing desserts – I had the chop and the most amazing piece of Chess pie I have ever tasted – five stars for sure!

LBL and Grand Rivers really experienced a nasty ice storm this winter and the damage to the trees is still very visible. I had hoped to camp at the Corps of Engineers campground on the canal here in Grand Rivers, but the storm completely wiped it out. Some of the trails in LBL are still closed because of downed trees. The ride today was really hilly and with the overall elevation rising, it was a series of climbs and plateaus with not many downhill glides.

It was a beautiful day nonetheless, and I am grateful for the mostly great weather I have had so far. Today is the first day of my third week on the road – I have now ridden 750 miles.

Your comments and contributions to this fundraising adventure are most appreciated. Thanks for the dromedary challenge, Jim – will you triple your pledge if I get a camel to chase me? Let’s continue to have fun with this trip and preserve public radio as well. It’s great having so many of you following along.

Oh well, time to wrap up – if all goes well tomorrow I’ll be camping at Cave In Rock in Southern Illinois. Catch you later...

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On the Battlefield

The rain finally caught up with me in Waverly. It started about midnight and was still coming down hard this morning. I debated with myself about trying to ride in it and finally decided to go for it around 11:00AM (check out time at the motel where I was staying).

I put all the rain gear on the bike and me and headed out just as the rain really started to pick up. There was no electrical activity in the sky, so I just got a good soaking for the first 30 miles of my ride. About 20 miles from Dover, the dark clouds turned fluffy white and the sun came out, so I was able to mostly dry out by the time I reached the southern end to Land Between the Lakes.

I checked into the Dover Inn and within an hour the rain started again and hasn’t let up yet. I have been so lucky with the weather! I visited Fort Donelson National Battlefield, scene of the first Civil War battle won by the Union Army. It was a crucial Union victory that opened the door to an offensive into the heart of the Confederacy.

These are some of the man-made earthen walls and trenches made by the Confederate soldiers in their failed attempt to defend the fort.

This victory by General Ulysses S. Grant and his troops, along with the taking of Fort Henry in Tennessee and Fort Heiman in Kentucky, dramatically bettered the situation for thousands of enslaved persons in both Tennessee and Kentucky. They now had friendly havens within slave territory, with Union soldiers now occupying these forts and controlling the rivers they were located on throughout the rest of the war.

The soldiers helped freedom seekers escape to free states. Even soldier’s wives and other local women came to their aid. The signing of the Second Confiscation Act of July 1862 permitted the emancipation of secessionists’ slaves that entered Union lines. By 1863, Fort Donelson saw the creation of a freedmen’s camp, with former slaves building their own homes. Later that same year, Fort Donelson became a recruiting station for African-Americans.I’m hoping that the rain passes through tonight.

Even with the foul weather today, five dogs rose to the occasion and engaged in bonafide chases (for those of you keeping count). The most exciting chase was with a St. Bernard mix – he was HUGE and fast – and he was determined. As I came around a curve with him in pursuit, I noticed a pair of mutts on the side of a hill just sitting and watching. I figure they must be accustomed to his favorite sport – sort of a cheering section. Oh well, I’m just doing my part, keeping the canines entertained. I’ll be in Kentucky before lunch tomorrow. Catch up with you later.

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Humping Through the Hills of Tennessee

Lame caption, I know, but I couldn’t resist. This dromedary was not what I was expecting along the back roads of western Tennessee, but sure enough there he was this morning as I left Mousetail Landing heading toward Waverly. Tradition has it that Mousetail Landing got its name during the Civil War period when one of the area’s tanning companies caught fire. The exodus of mice fleeing the burning tannery was so profuse that this area became known as Mousetail Landing.

Last night I camped primitive style and was visited throughout the night by the various wildlife that populates this area. They kept noisily snooping around my tent until I finally told them to beat it so I could get some sleep. I was on the road shortly after sunrise today in order to beat the storm front that is rapidly moving into the area. The ride went well and I made it to Waverly by early afternoon.

I even found time to make a side trip off route to have lunch at Cissie Lynn’s Country Store & Dance Barn. I was told her burgers were the best around, so I had one cooked by Cissie herself. Fried bologna sandwiches are her specialty (fixed just the way her mama Loretta taught her), but I opted for the burger and a piece of Chess cake. Here’s a picture of us as I was getting ready to hit the road again.

Your comments are great! Several of you are taking the dollar-a-dog challenge, so I will keep you updated daily with a head count of the number of bonafide chases since I started keeping track (too bad I didn’t start tracking from day one – Alabama had quite a few). I only consider a dog encounter a “chase” if the dog actually gets in the road with me and goes for it. Barking while fenced, tied up, or merely running along with me but not leaving the yard doesn’t count. Using that criteria, here are my stats since last Wednesday (4/15):

4/15: 17 (in only 30 miles!)
4/16: 0 (good for me, bad for fundraising)
4/17: 4
4/18: 7

Okay, that’s it so far. On the one hand, I want to raise a lot of money, but I really don’t enjoy getting chased. Oh well, we might as well have fun with this – I am! If the weather doesn’t shut me down, I’ll be heading for the Land Between the Lakes and Kentucky in the morning.

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The Mighty Tennessee

The weather could not have been more perfect today as I crossed another section of the beautiful Tennessee River near Saltillo. I had a nice afternoon yesterday in Savannah and visited the burial site of Alex and Queen Haley, the grandparents of Roots author Alex Haley. I left my camera in my room, so I didn’t get a picture.

The terrain is definitely getting more hilly as I move north through the state and my legs are feeling it. All in all, the bike and I are both holding up pretty well. I may have to adjust my daily mileage expectation, as the locals here tell me the hills I climbed today are nothing compared to what tomorrow will bring. I had a great lunch at a meat n’ three establishment, The Midway Café, in Decaturville. The folks there were really nice and one gentleman even paid for my lunch – people are inherently kind and good – don’t believe otherwise.

Tonight I am camping in a heavily wooded area called Mousetail Landing. Getting here was fun – the last mile was about a 45 degree incline – I pushed the bike most of the way up and even that was a chore. Oh well, at least I get a nice ride downhill first thing in the morning. I’m going to try to get an early start and see if I can beat the rain that is forecast for the weekend.

I will continue to post my blogs through the weekend, even though I won’t be making any live call-in reports again until Monday morning. I continue to enjoy the many comments you are making and the words of advice and encouragement. If you have a question that you want me to respond to you directly about, make sure you put your e-mail address in the comment. I also appreciate so very much the contributions you are making to this important cause. Take care and I’ll be in touch tomorrow.

P.S. – Wouldn’t you know it – right after I come up with my Dollar-A-Dog idea, I have no encounters today. I’m not complaining – it’ll be hard to outrun anything on these hills!

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Sunrise in Tishomingo

After enjoying a beautifully misty sunrise along with my duck friends in Tishomingo State Park, it was time to head north once again. Today I decided to take an alternate route running parallel to the Underground Railroad Route about five miles to the east (I know, pretty risky for the directionally challenged one) because I wanted to more closely follow the Tennessee Tombigbee Waterway to the place where it joins the Tennessee River. This happens right at the point where Alabama, Mississippi, and Tennessee all converge. Pickwick Lake to be precise.

I took this photo as I crossed the Tennessee River at Pickwick Dam. Although I bypassed Shiloh, I much preferred seeing this, particularly after following the Tenn-Tom Waterway all this way. Of course, this man-made wonder didn’t even exist during the time of the Underground Railroad, but the Tennessee River sure did and played a crucial role in the escape route to the north.

As I rode today, I reflected on the relationship between my fundraising mission and dog encounters. As I have said before, a big part of this adventure is to make you aware of the need to preserve public radio, a great national treasure enjoyed by millions of discerning listeners like you. The family dog is charged with the responsibility of preserving its family’s property. We are both determined to succeed. Now I have no interest in disturbing anything in that dog’s world, but he doesn’t know that and can’t take any chances.

I can respect that. I have to keep reminding you that this is a FUNDRAISING adventure for the same reason. Having said that, and given the frequency of dog encounters on this trip, I am proposing a dollar-a-dog pledge level. If I can raise one buck from enough people for every dog that chases me on this trip, we can keep public radio around for a long time. What inspired this idea was the unusually large number of dogs I encountered on Wednesday. I was chased 17 times! I outran 15 of them and the air horn stopped the other 2. So far I have not had to unholster the pepper spray even once.

I have learned how to predict the frequency of dog encounters by studying the maps. State roads are the least likely places to find loose canines. Moderate to heavy traffic tends to inspire dog owners to fence in their pets, lest they become road kill. Encounters on county roads are more likely, but the road I traveled on Wednesday was the perfect storm – one named after a local politician without any sort of numerical designation (only referred to by locals as “the north road”) a place you know you’ll be on your own and every dog along the way will consider the section in front of their yard their property. So check those maps before you ride and get yourself an air horn.

Thanks as always to those of you who have made a contribution to this campaign. If you get a chance, let one or more of our corporate sponsors know how much you appreciate their support of public radio. It’s good to be in Tennessee – I’ve traveled about 550 miles since leaving Pensacola on April 6th. Check back in with me tomorrow.

Large versions of all my blog pics can be found at my photo gallery.

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Wheeling into Tishomingo

It has been another fabulous day of riding in North Mississippi. When I left Fulton this morning, it was cold and dreary, but by early afternoon the sun shone brightly and it was all good. By the time I took this picture coming in Tishomingo, I felt like Mother Nature was giving me her full embrace.


I was well rested after a great evening with Carl and Nan Comer and so appreciative of their fine Southern hospitality. I went off route today to check out one of the many locks I have been passing as I rode alongside the Tennessee Tombigbee Waterway. The lock at Bay Springs caught my attention because of its sheer size.

You can see in this picture how it dwarfs the barge being pushed inside. I learned that it is the third largest lock in America, with the water level from the low to the high side rising 88 feet. Here is a shot of the high side of the dam. I had a picnic on the shore and watched the barge make the trip through the lock. One of the benefits of this trip is taking the time to observe things like this.

While I was exploring Bay Springs Lake, I came across this old frontier cabin. Apparently this was a fairly common design by early settlers to the area and was often used to house two families. The cooking area was separated from the sleeping area by the open porch. They were given the nickname “dog trot” cabins because the dogs could run through the common area.

For part of the trip today the Underground Railroad Route joined the Natchez Trace. This was a beautiful ride, but far too short – only ten miles. I, of course, stretched it to twenty-two miles by riding in the wrong direction for six miles. No surprise here. Oh well, it was worth seeing that stretch twice!

Thanks for all the great comments I’m getting. Ken B. – thanks for the dining tips. I eagerly anticipated those fist-sized hush puppies at Country Boys, but alas, they have gone out of business – bummer! If all goes well tomorrow, I will be crossing into Tennessee by midday. I am now a quarter of the way to Owen Sound, Ontario! Having you follow along online really means a lot to me – I never feel alone out here. See you tomorrow!

Large versions of all my blog pics can be found at my photo gallery.

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Good Eating Today!

The day got off to a good start with a magnificent sunrise over Aberdeen Lake. After a brief shower last night, a cool dry breeze prevailed and pretty much dried everything off by morning. The air felt so refreshing and the geese and turtles kept me amused while I started packing up.

Even the fact that I had yet another flat tire did not spoil the mood, although this scene is getting too familiar. Not to worry, though. By the end of the day the mysterious tire problem would be resolved.

About an hour after sunrise a cold front moved in fast, dropping the temperature to the high 40s and bringing with it dark foreboding cloud cover. The entire ride to Fulton was cold and dreary, but it never rained – I still seem to be having great luck avoiding the wacky weather that seems to be all around.


I was hoping to score some local cuisine on my route today when I stumbled upon Bill’s Burgers in downtown Amory. For the record, I had mine “with”, a radical departure for this ketchup-only guy. I enjoyed the great burger and the opportunity to warm up a bit before pressing on.


My visit to Fulton is being hosted by Carl and Nan Comer. They are Fulton natives who graciously invited me into their beautiful home and fed me a delicious dinner. Their hospitality is outstanding – while Nan did my laundry, Carl drove me to Tupelo to find the nearest cycle shop.

We found it and the guy running the place discovered a tiny piece of wire lodged in my rear tire. He successfully removed it and hopefully with it my deflating tire mystery. Yea! Special thanks to my friend Bill Ford who introduced me to these fine folks.

While in Tupelo I saw Elvis’ birthplace, but didn’t have my camera with me to capture the moment. I have had no Elvis sightings during my time in Mississippi. Oh well, I’ll keep looking.

Tune in to WUWF (at 88.1 FM or wuwf.org) at 7:30 a.m. and 4:30 p.m. or visit my media archives to listen to my phone reports and to find out where I’m headed next. Blog you tomorrow!

Large versions of all my blog pics can be found at my photo gallery.

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Light from Darkness

I was in my tent waiting out a passing storm and working on this blog when I glanced up and saw this beautiful rainbow right in the midst of the gathering storm clouds. Wow – the picture doesn’t do it justice.

I am camping tonight (Monday 4/13) on Aberdeen Lake, my tent literally five feet from the water and I am surrounded by Canadian geese (snow birds, perhaps?). I am beginning to really like this nomadic back to nature way of life.

After the storm from last night passed this morning, the ride from Columbus went well. This part of Mississippi is flatter and more farm-like than the roads I’ve traveled in Alabama. I actually miss the hills and timberland. Oh well, I’ll be in Tennessee soon enough and be wishing for a long flat road.

I crossed the Tennessee – Tombigbee Waterway today. It is a 234-mile artificial waterway that connects the Tennessee and Tombigbee rivers. The idea was born in 1760, but it took until 1946 for Congress to approve it and construction didn’t begin until 1971. Over the next 15 years, environmentalists and the L&N Railroad filed numerous lawsuits to stop it, but finally after 12 years of construction, the waterway and its 17 public ports and terminals opened to commercial traffic in 1985. Okay, that’s your history lesson for today.

Here’s another picture of my campsite at Aberdeen Lake. I am grateful for the opportunity to experience this kind of beauty and adventure and appreciate that you are following along.

I also appreciate the many comments that you have been making (keep it up) and the contributions you have been making to this important campaign for WUWF (keep that up too!) I was asked today why I hadn’t commented on my physical condition like I did on my walk to Washington (it was all about the feet, after all). Well, everything is working nicely for both me and the bike – except for the rear tire, which is on its third tube and still can’t stay fully inflated for more than a few hours.

Okay, you seasoned cyclists out there, any ideas? I have checked the rim for spurs and the tire for any foreign objects and I can’t see anything. Any and all advice is appreciated. I’m heading for Fulton in the morning. Tune in at 7:30am during Morning Edition for the latest update.

Peace out!

Large versions of all my blog pics can be found at my photo gallery.

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